Prolog
On November 21st, 2010 I was reading the Orange County Register. In the Travel Section I found an article, written by Alicia Chang, about their recent visit to Ecuador.
Tova & I sat around the table as I was reading the article out loud. It was a unanimous vote: We must go and visit Ecuador.
The same day I wrote an email to “Escaped to Latin America”, that we had used for the Peru trip and asked them to send me a suggested itinerary for duration of two weeks, and Seppe, a travel consultant, responded. In the next 3 months we were fine tuning the trip and the date was set for June 9th, 2011. Seppe was very cooperative during all this time and was flexible to all changes I suggested as we progressed.
================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 1: June 9th, 2011
We left LAX, on a COPA flight, at around 2:00 am, and landed in Panama City at 9:00 AM where we connected to our final flight, which arrived in Quito, Ecuador at around 11:30 AM. The flights were very pleasant. After going through immigration and custom we met with our guide Carlos Avila and our driver Rasner.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We found out that the airport was right there in the center of the city. Carlos told us that Quito's Mariscal Sucre International Airport has long been considered dangerous, too small and a nuisance to the city’s residents. A new airport 18 kilometers to the northeast was to solve the problem. However, political and legal disputes over the 2002 contract stalled financing of the project. It is estimated that the new airport will be in operation in the next couple of years.
Our hotel in Quito was Hotel Quito (simple to remember – that’s for sure!). The attractive 4.5 stars hotel is situated in a picturesque setting at the edge of the new part of Quito. We found an expansive view from our hotel room and even more from the 7th floor restaurant. There is a large pool, a gym, Jacuzzi, steam room and a sauna all situated next to a huge garden with many beautiful flowers and trees. What we were impressed with the most though, was the excellent service by the loyal staff.
As we had the afternoon off, we wondered the streets next to the hotel and found a clean and intimate restaurant where we had an early dinner. We then returned to the hotel and used the pool for some swimming around where we met 2 Americans Tim & Mike from New Hampshire, who are in Ecuador on an educational tour (They are both teachers).
We were standing next to a line that actually divides the two hemispheres. The guide placed a water sink on each side of the equator and on the equator itself. At each position he filled the sink with water and then when he let the water drain out, the water circled from left to write in the Northern Hemispheres, right to left on the Southern side and straight in the middle, when the sink was over the line. He then challenged us to position a raw egg on a small holder, while standing on the center divider of the earth. Few of us (including myself) were able to stable the egg and received a certificate for it.
================================================================================================================================================================================
A line down the center was meant to mark the equator. Tova & I stood only inches apart from each other, on both of a dividing line and were in two separate hemispheres. (I cracked a joke
that for some couples it feels the same way at home too…)
We left the village and after a (very) short drive arrived to Mitad del Mundo (Spanish: Middle of the World). We first stopped at the Museo Etnográfico Mitad del Mundo, a museum about the indigenous ethnography of Ecuador, and the monument.
The main attraction was next. We arrived to a 30-meter-tall monument, which was constructed
to mark th
e point where the equator passes through the country, believed originally in 1736. According to the current GPS systems and computer mapping (Like Google Earth), the equator is placed at the village we had visited earlier, about 240 meters north of the marked line. I took the elevator to the top of the monument and found a breathtaking 360 degree view of surrounding mountains. I used the stairs coming down where I visited a nice museum and saw the exhibits, dedicated to the local Indigenous population.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Our next stop was Rumicucho Ruins, which are Ecuador's most significant pre-Incan site.
Carlos explained that the name means in the Indigenous language “Corner Stone Fortress”. The site, built at the foot of Mount Fuya Fuya, is perfectly aligned with the white capped summit of Volcan Cayambe (a volcano located in the Ecuadorian Andes) and with the Puntiachil site, another ancient monument. Although its actual significance is unknown, Rumicucho is a sacred site, a meeting place for the spirits on the longest day of the year.
I am sure that the site’s proximity to the Middle of The World as some significance as well.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We returned to the hotel at around 3:00 and decided to skip the afternoon rest and continue on our own. Our hotel is standing tall on a mountain and the village built on the side of the mountain is called Guapulo. We took the only road that leads to the bottom of the mountain and headed down, huffing and puffing as we slowly waked the slope in the high altitude.
Besides the marvelous views we found out that the neighborhood is a home to many local artists and has a couple of hipster cafés/bars.
================================================================================================================================================================================
It took us about 30 minutes and we arrived to Santuario de Guapulo. A church situated near Tumbaco Valley and is dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe whose figure was made by the famous sculptor Diego de Robles. A plaque revealed to us that the church was built on 1596. It has the usual Latin-cross form of the Colonial Spanish churches. There is also a high school in the
back of the church. The church was closed but a woman who arrived to light a candle came to the rescue. The guard opened the door for her and we asked a permission to enter as well. We found that the interior was covered was gold and the entire room was just unbelievable pretty with unique paintings and a gorgeous sculpture.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We headed up the mountain, back to our hotel, and found out that it was so much easier to climb up than down. We made it in 20 minutes (!).
================================================================================================================================================================================
While waiting for the flight to Coca we met with David & Maria from Germany, who are here in Ecuador a part of their diploma program to become certified tour guides. They too were heading to the lodge. The 30 minutes flight was pleasant and the views from the airplane’s window were spectacular.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Once on the ground, we met with a young man named Louis, representing the lodge, and were driven to a dock where we were transferred to a motorized canoe. The ride down the Napo River was unique and reminded us the ride we took few years back in Peru. Joining us on the boat were indigenous natives who were going home somewhere in the jungle, after spending the day and night in Coca, which is the central city for all indigenous natives who live in the Ecuadorian’s Amazon Rain Forest. In the “big” city is where they shop, see a (conventional) doctor, or just come to have a good time and visit relatives. One of the riders was a young woman with her baby. As the baby cried she removed her shirt and breath fed her without any shame or concern that other strangers were around her.
================================================================================================================================================================================
On our way we spotted a location, were tractors and other heavy machineries disturbed the harmony and peaceful atmosphere of the jungle. They were drilling for oil and by doing so they removed many trees, leveling the grounds for their purpose. One of the natives on the boat spitted towards the machines as other watched and agreed with his behavior with a nod of their heads.
After a three hour ride we arrived at a bank of the river where we met a representative from the lodge. As our luggage were carried by employees of the lodge, we walked for a few minutes to a location where a rowing canoe was waiting for us in front of a beautiful lagoon. We sailed for about 30 minutes through beautiful flora and arrived at a small lake where we saw La Selva Lodge, deep in the Amazon Rainforest.
A young woman, who later introduced herself as Amy, was fishing from the dock and as we arrived she told us that if she is lucky we will have fish for dinner.
We entered the bar (Yes: they do have one at every lodge in the Amazons) and complimentary tropical drinks were served along with delicious appetizers. We met with 
Marco, our guide and naturalist for the next 3 days, who gave us a presentation (in perfect English, I might add) and also told us the rules of the lodge. Later we were led to our cabin with the name: Jaguar. (Cabins at La Selva do not have numbers but instead they have names of animals from the jungle).
================================================================================================================================================================================
We found the cabin to be spacious, simple but very comfortable. A big comfortable bed in the middle of the room with a mosquito net, the bathroom had all modern amenities (mirror, toilet, power shower with good water pressure), and a nice deck in the front of the cabin with a bathtub and 2 reclining chairs.
================================================================================================================================================================================
After the delicious dinner (which included some of the fish that Amy was able to catch) we met with Marco and his skilled assistant Manuel as we planned to tour one of the paths to discover some night life in the jungle but to as rain started to pour rather heavily, Marco changed his plans and instead took us first to a butterfly farm, not far from the lodge.
We spent about an hour in the farm and received a very interesting explanation about the butterflies. Marco told us that La Selva Farm produces as many as 20,000 butterflies per year from eggs to caterpillars for export purposes. They send pupae (insect at the stage between a larva and an adult) to such diverse locations as a zoo in Holland, a castle in France, and Cypress Gardens in Florida where they fly in enclosed botanical gardens. We saw different kind of butterflies, some of them were very colorful and I could not stop wondering about how nature created them so symmetric and how their colors were used to survive the jungle life.
The rain subsided and we embarked the rowing canoe, and sailed quietly in the lagoon, spotting on our way some wild turkeys, caimans, birds and other wildlife animals.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We woke at around 6:30 as a storm came in to our little neck of the woods.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Marco informed us that due to the storm we have a change of plans and will start the morning visiting a family of natives of the jungle.
The head of the house, the father, sat with us and talked about their life-style, while Marco, who knows few dialects of the indigenous natives plus Spanish and of course English, translated back and forth. The two women were working in the open kitchen area and also did some other chores, while the rain was still pouring down hard. After about 30 minutes a drink called Chicha (Native’s beer) was served in a big bowl, while each and every one of us took a sip from it.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We learned about their life-style, the way they hunt, shop, cook, and more.
================================================================================================================================================================================
On our way back to the canoe, we were taught on how to shoot an arrow from a blowgun,. I was able to hit one of the three arrows in the middle of the target!
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived at a huge tower and climbed to the top of it. The views from the roof of the rainforest were just unbelievable.
The guides brought with them a couple of telescopes and spotted many birds and monkeys and then pointed out their locations. I was able to take many beautiful pictures of different kinds of birds (including parrots) and squirrel monkeys.
We returned to the camp, using a different path this time. At dinner we said goodbyes to Ephraim and his two kids and went to sleep at around 9:00.
================================================================================================================================================================================
During dinner last night, David asked Marco if it is possible to return to the tower in the morning to witness sunrise. Marco agreed and I asked to join them as well.
================================================================================================================================================================================
At around 5:10 we heard a commotion in the jungle. Animals were yelling and birds were flying all over the place. “It started” said Manuel and then we saw the huge ball of fire in the east. The sky started to turn red in the horizons and the animals continued to sing their morning’s songs. A symphony orchestrated by nature. It was a sight I will probably remember the rest of my life: the colors, the sounds, and the smell. Wow!!
On our way back to the lodge we spotted a family of monkeys jumping from tree to tree. We also found beautiful and curious birds that looked at us as asking: “What ARE you doing here this time of the morning?”
================================================================================================================================================================================
Once again we used the rowing canoe and then a motored canoe, which waited for us at the intersection of the river and the lagoon and we arrived to a Park where we paid our entrance fees and then arrived to the rock.
After only a few minutes the sky was filled with hundreds of parrots aiming to the trees around the rock. We sat there quietly taking picture after picture of the amazing sight.
The birds were about to start their traditional licking but something held them back. Marco & Manuel took a couple of binoculars and started “touring” each and every inch of the trees.
================================================================================================================================================================================
I joined once again to Manuel, Maria and David as we chose to walk back to camp, while the other group, including Tova, opted to go to the cultural center with Marco and then to continue to a cave where (with a bit of luck) they will be able to see other parrots licking clay from a rock on top of a cave.
Our small group advanced in the forest and watched many animals’ species, frogs, birds, and the wild flora. Manual was such an expert, leading s through his beloved jungle and was the happiest guy in the world when he found something to show us. At one point he made a “jungle crown” out of the same plant that is used for Panama hats. Maria wore the “crown” with so much joy.
The highlight of their tour was at the cave where hundreds of parrots had a fiesta licking clay. Tova even took some great picture to prove her point.
At one point I touched a branch that was going to scratch me, as the canoe passed by it. I discovered a red ant on the palm of my hand. My instinct was to brush the ant away and I did. In about 10 seconds my hands was burning with heat. The ant bit me around my pinky and the poison spread all over the front of my hand. I told Marco about it and he said that if I will not be over in a few minutes, we will have to treat it. Luckily though, it gradually disappeared until it was gone completely, about 20 minutes later.
We returned to camp and to once again a delicious dinner and then we all gathered around as we prepared for a night walk through the thick and wild forest. You can’t have a Jungle Night Walk without jungle! As we waited for the walk to start a light rain began to fall. We (Tova & I) were prepared with proper clothing and waterproof ponchos. But some of the others were only wearing sweatshirts. That was going to suck! Who goes to the “rain forest” with only a sweatshirt? Luckily for them (and us) the rain had stopped few minutes later and we all pulled out our cameras and started looking for targets to “shoot”.
Louis showed up minutes later and we were on our way to our awaiting plane at the airport. Rain started at around 9:30 and our flight was delayed for 30 minutes.
We continued to Itcimbia or as it also called: Crystal Palace Cultural Center. We were stunned by the beauty of the palace and the stunning panoramic views we could see from this site. Located on one of Quito's most important hillsides, at 2900 meters, it is the home to a profound history as a sacred site for civilizations that predate Incan presence in the country.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We climbed the van and headed towards the Old City. In one of the intersections our driver and another driver started an argument on who has the right of way. The other driver cursed and gestured some unpleasant signs with his finger. He also cursed Carlos. Before we understood what was going on, both men stepped out of their car and started a fist fight. The other driver was a big fellow, about 6’2” with tattoos all over his hands and let me remind you that Carlos, though very healthy, is about 5’6 at the most. We were stunned. It was David versus Goliath to say the least. The hundreds of cars behind us started to honk and drivers came out of their cars yelling and screaming. I was trying to get out of the van and help Carlos but he did not need any help: As the big guy swung and missed, Carlos landed one right on the side of his face. It could have gotten worse but to our luck, a policeman showed up and separated the two hombres. Carlos returned to the van and apologized to us. He told us that the policeman asked the two drivers to settle right there or face court. We drove for a couple of minutes and the other car followed us, while the policeman walked the distance to a place where they both once again came out of their cars, argued some more but then shook hands to prove to the policeman that this thing is behind them. Carlos asked me if I am about to report the incident to his managers and I told him that I had no intentions but I will write about it in my journal.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Once we walked inside we discovered in the sanctuary 14 bronze images representing 11 apostles and three
evangelists. In the crypt, we saw a pantheon containing the remains of several heads of state. We walked the streets and arrived to a high school that once was a University. It had a beautiful library.
================================================================================================================================================================================
The streets were boasted with the city’s residents, vendors, tourists, kids running around, and many cars. The smell of the big city was a mixed of smoke, and the aromas coming out of the many restaurants and vendors. I was fascinated by the looks of the indigenous women and their clothing. They add so much culture and colors to the city and their expressions are unforgettable.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived home at 4:00 pm.We arrived at the Plaza Grande (formally known as Plaza de la Independencia). We passed by the famous Plaza Grande Hotel and noticed that the Israeli flag is among other flags raised in front of the hotel. To our question, Carlos told us that Israel plays a major role in developing the agriculture of the country and that Ecuadorians have lots of respect to the State of Israel and that many businessmen from the Holy Land come and stay at this hotel for it proximity to the Governor Palace and other government offices. The rate for a room at this hotel is around $600 (six-hundred US dollars a night!!!!) but usually the government will play host and will end up with the bill.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Located in the heart of the old city, Plaza Grande is one of the symbols of the executive power of the nation. Its main feature is the Monument to the Independence Heroes of August 10, 1809, date remembered as the First Cry of Independence of the Royal Audience of Quito from Spanish monarchy. The area became 
the main square of Quito in the 16th century. Afraid the Incas might poison their water supply, the Spanish set up their own protected well here, and this plaza subsequently became the social center of town. It also served as a central market and bullfighting area. Today, Old Town's main square is bordered by the Government Palace to the west, City Hall to the east, the Archbishop's Palace to the north, and the cathedral to the south.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We watched couple strolling hand-in-hand, men in business suits breezing by, shoe shine boys trying to make a few quarters, and Indigenous women selling their products.
We entered the Presidential Palace or Government Palace, passing by 2 uniformed soldiers. It is considered to be the most interesting building on the plaza. Carlos told us that we do not have any time on our agenda to tour the place inside as the tours are in Spanish only and last one hour. I was surprised and decided to check for myself. I spoke to one of the supervisors in the palace who told me that I
could arrange for an English speaking guide if we choose to return in the afternoon. He also added that the tour takes only 30 minutes.To our big disappointment we did not have the chance to tour the place and I was (and still am) upset as to why Carlos did not arrange it so we could see the beauty inside the palace. I also found out later that Carlos was more than welcome to enter the palace with us and that we did not need anyone else to guide us in English.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We continued our day and arrived to San Francisco Square with the magnificent San Francisco Church, the most imposing of all Quito's architectural monuments, is a combination of a temple, a series of chapels, and a convent. All this together takes up nearly two whole blocks. Constructed between 1535-1605 the San Francisco Church and Monastery with its 104 Doric columns is the largest structure in colonial Quito. Built on an Incan holy site, it is the oldest church in South America and considered a great masterpiece of baroque art. Once inside we discovered how rich this church was: Every inch of wall and ceiling is paved with gold. The inside of the church is absolutely amazing in its beauty and richness.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We met with our driver, who took us to out last attraction of the day: TeleferiQo, the brand new tourist attraction of Quito. We hopped on one of the gondolas and started the climb on the side of Pichincha Volcano. The ascent took approximately 10 minutes, traveling some 2500 meters while going from 2950 meters to 4050 meters altitude. At the summit we found an amusement park, a collection of boutiques and shops, and a couple of restaurants. We took one of the paths and arrived at a spot where we could see almost the entire city right there beneath us. The spectacular bird’s view made a big impression on me. I was able to spot the city’s soccer field, the new airport, the Old City and even our hotel in the New City. A traveler from Newport Beach, California told us he is going to climb the summit with his guide. Experiencing short of breath at around 13,400 feet, I felt sorry for the big fellow, who just arrived to the city the same morning and was not used to the thin air…
Once we reached down the mountain we asked Carlos to drop us off at a camping equipment store, , where we spent the next hour shopping. We found a great restaurant nearby and had the best meal, which included hot potatoes soup mixed with other vegetables and (to our surprise) an omelet. We also had Ceviche’ (With mix of sea fruits), and a traditional chicken plate.
Our first stop was at Calderon, known for its bread dough figurine. The little dough figures were decorated with traditional indigenous costumes from various parts of the country and we couldn’t believe our eyes how simple and beautiful they were. We also watched the native Ecuadorian at her work. It was simply amazing. As well as the traditional bread dough ("masapan") handicrafts; we got some great views of Quito and the valleys to its north and east.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Our journey continued as we used the Pan American Highway and arrived to a stop along the way, Mira Lago, where Carlos promised us that we will visit the best panoramic restroom in the world. He was right. Visiting the restroom costs 25 cents and as you sit on the toilet, the green valley is right beneath you, as they have a glassed wall installed instead of a conventional wall.
================================================================================================================================================================================
A boy and his lamas were posing above the restrooms, and a painter (Pablo) was showing off his beautiful pictures.
We arrived to Otavalo and the famous market at Plaza de los Ponchos. Otavalo was an area made up principally of farming communities due to the rich volcanic soils in this area, but with the growth of tourism, the town has begun to focus more on the making of handicrafts, which have made the Saturday market a popular stop with visitors to Ecuador. Tourism has become the town's main industry and as a results there are many more hotels and hostels. As the town is famous for its textiles, many of the nearby villages and towns are famous for their own particular crafts. Cotacachi (we will visit the place later on today), the center of Ecuador's leather industry, is known for its polished calf skins. In San Antonio, where the local specialty is wood carving (We would visit there later as well), the main street prominently displays carved statues, picture frames, and furniture.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We spent an hour in the market and managed to buy few things there as well. At one point a young indigenous approached me and offered to make a leather belt for me. Once he measured my size, I selected the design of he belt and right in front of our eyes he cut the leather material, installed the necessary hardware and a beautiful belt was created. The cost: $5. I also purchased 2 beautiful shirts and Tova managed to buy few things as well. Overall, it was a great experience.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Carlos was waiting for us next to his car and we continued our journey to a beautiful lake, in an ecological reserve area called Cotacachi Cayapas. The reserve contains about 752,000 acres of land and is located in the Imbabura Province of Ecuador. This nature reserve is partly rainforest. The park is mix of many biological zones but, the Andean and Sub-tropical zones are most common. The symbol of the reserve is a condor. The highlight for our tour was Cuic
ocha Lake, which lies in a volcanic crater and is 200 meter deep.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Our next stop was at the town of Cotacachi, in the foothills of a volcano. Carlos waited in the car while we walked around the main street where we found approximately 80 shops selling vast quantities of high quality leather jackets, hats, luggage, handbags, wallets, belts, boots, shoes and even saddles. Tova purchased a nice leather bag but refused to purchase a nice leather jacket claiming she will have no place to wear it.
We continued our drive to Peguche, and found the restaurant where we had reservations for lunch. The name of this unique restaurant is Sumac Micuy. Here the local delicacies were prepared over firewood and in a bread oven to preserve their original flavor. Lunch, which was served by the owner, included quinoa soup, freshly picked corn-on-the-cob, lima beans with cheese, roasted chicken and guinea pig (called cuy), steamed potatoes and vegetables.
Our last stop was at a Wood Craft center called San Antonio de Ibarra, where we spent the next hour windows shopping and even bought a nice wooden plate.
We headed back to Quito and met Ransen along the highway. We hopped into his car and arrived to our hotel 30 minutes later.
Our first stop was at a beautiful farm, turned into a resort hotel named Hosteria La Cienega, one of the best haciendas (farms) in Ecuador, located in the heart of the Ecuadorian Andes. Carlos, who was recognized by everyone in the staff, told us that the hotel is one of Ecuador's oldest colonial haciendas. Situated near the slopes of the majestic Cotopaxi Volcano and its National Park, this mansion has been the scene of important happenings in the scientific and social history of the country. Today, tastefully converted into a first-class hotel, La Cienega offers the unique experience of staying within its two-meter thick volcanic stone walls which stand as silent witnesses to the history of a people and the poetry of an era. The hacienda has 34 rooms. Among their services are: a restaurant with fine national and international cuisine, a bar, two seminar rooms, a chapel (especially for weddings), sports facilities, trout fishing, horseback riding and beautiful gardens.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We spent about an hour there and then continued our trip toward a small town by the name of Baños de Agua Santa. It is located in the Andean highlands of the country under the smoke of volcano Tungurahua. Its name, which is Spanish for "Baths (of sacred water)," comes from the famous hydrothermal springs in the area. It's equally popular with foreigners as with Ecuadorians and is known as the adventure capital of Ecuador. Carlos’ wife is from that town and her parents still live there.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We parked the car and while Carlos opted to have lunch at a hotel we hit the streets and found that they are lined with hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops and tour agents. We found a small restaurant, operated by a family of three (mother, daughter and son). We had a delicious lunch and then walked the main street. We also met a Rabbi in the street. We talked to him (his name was Eli) and he told us that he was sent by Chabad to build a center for all Jewish people who travel the area. He invited us over to spend the weekend with his family (wife and 2 children) but we refused politely and told him that we are here for only a couple of hours.
================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
On our way back we saw a beautiful church: The Church of the Virgin of the Holy Water. This neo-Gothic style church is named after the vision of the Virgin Mary seen near the come to thank the Virgin for many miracles and to ask for her blessing, appropriately named waterfalls and is therefore a place of pilgrimage for those who sing. It was built with many volcanic rocks and the inside is lined with paintings depicting the Virgin's miracles, including saving the church from multiple volcanic eruptions.
We also stopped at a street full of vendors. They all were selling one item: Sugar Canes. We bought a package full of sweet and juicy sugar canes and even had a glass full of sweet juice (Jugo de Caña), made freshly by the vendor.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We met Carlos and headed towards the thermal baths nearby: La Piscina de La Virgen. It is the best-known bath in Baños. There are three baths altogether: one is cold, another is warm and a third reaches nearly 48°C (118°F), making it a truly scalding experience. The hot springs are believed to have healing powers. They contain minerals that turn the water brown, which make us presume that the water is dirty. 
When Tova saw that one of the kids was standing with his pants down and urinating straight to the bath, she opted not to try the hot natural hot water. It didn’t help when I tried to convince her that most people are peeing inside the pool anyhow and that there are many minerals that take care of it.
I entered the hot bath and spent about 45 minutes enjoying the hot water. Above the baths there was a wonderful waterfall: Cascada de La Virgen (Waterfall of the Virgin). I returned to the car to pickup the camera and hiked the many steps towards the top of the waterfall when suddenly I stepped awkwardly and twisted my back. The pain was unbelievable (and stayed with me for the rest of our visit at Ecuador and 2 weeks after we arrived home.)
================================================================================================================================================================================
We continued our trip, passing Agoyan Hydroelectric Dam and stopped at a location just outside the town, where we climbed a cable car that took us across the waterfalls and river. It was so much fun and the views from the cable car were unbelievable.
We drove along the river, entering few tunnels and breathing in the beauty of nature. We arrived to a small village called Las Hortensias. We entered a path called Pailon Grieta al Cielo (A crack in the sky) and after hiking down the mountain for some 20 
minutes we arrived to an amazingly powerful and extremely huge waterfall. This was Cascada Pailon Del Diablo, which smashed water into the bowl below while sending clouds of mist flying all over, making it resemble a boiling pot. The waterfall is approximately 100 feet high. This beautiful and impressive waterfall has three waterfalls that because the same force with which they fall, they form an impressive whirlwind.
We climbed up the path, this time observing the beautiful flora alongside the path and arrived back to the village where we treated ourselves to a cold fresh orange juice.
While Carlos started to converse outside the restaurant with another guide that he knew, I went inside the restaurant and found a nice garden with two parrots, who were saying sentences in Spanish. Other guests said phrases to them and even whistled and the parrots cooperated. It was amazing. Once inside I asked if we can have a table for three for coffee only. The person at the register said that right now he was busy and that I should returned in 5 minutes. I went back to the car and fetched Tova to show her the garden and the two parrots. When the five minutes were over I went back inside and asked the person if okay to sit down. He was really busy with 6 clients who finished their meal and had their credit cards being rejected. I went outside and told Carlos we should continue and find another place for coffee. Carlos had some great news: He just learned (from his friend, he happened to meet while waiting for me) that the road to Riobamba was opened and that it will take us 45 minutes (versus 2.5 hours). We decided not to have coffee and go straight to the Riobamba.
We took the way back towards Baños and then entered an unpaved road that partially was covered with lava from the last eruption. It was so unique and so suspenseful. We were one of only few cars on that road; the time was nearly 8:00 in the evening and the sky were covered with clouds. On the right of the road there was a beautiful river that looked in the dark like a huge snake. On the left we saw along the way the dark mountains and some debris on the side from rock sliding.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived to Riobamba at around 9:00 and checked in to the beautiful Hosteria Abraspungo Hotel, located in the countryside a few miles from the city. It is named after a glacial valley which is situated between the Chimborazo Volcano and Carihuairazo, in the exact center of Ecuador. The hotel used to be a farm (Hacienda) in its earlier days and had been converted to a beautiful and charming hotel.
The Hacienda is adorned with old photographs and illustrations of Andean landscapes, which today constitutes as a testimony to years gone by. We found antiques on display in the social areas, which give a colonial flavor as well as a feel for the pre-Colombian cultures of the region. Our room was spacious and was decorated with Ecuadorian’s style. The hotel is ranked number 2 in the city.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We met for dinner an hour after checking in and the food plus service were perfect. The cost for a delicious, perfectly cooked, filet mignon dish was $10. We sat next to a fireplace and looked at the decorated walls. I felt like I am in a movie, sitting at a place that has so much history.
Later we stepped into the Internet center where photos of indigenous, in black and white, were all over the walls.
We went to sleep at around 11:00.
================================================================================================================================================================================
I took many pictures of the faces in the market, in black & white, as I was influenced by the beautiful pictures we saw yesterday at the Hacienda.
We drove through beautiful landscapes and arrived to Alausi at around 10:30. Alausí is the railway town having the most famous train ride in Ecuador: Nariz del Diablo (or The Devil's Nose). In the 19th Century it was the most difficult railway construction in the world due to the sheer rock wall known as the Nariz del Diablo, below the town.
Carlos went to get our tickets for the famous train ride, while we walked the streets, as we had about an hour until departure. We found a pretty little town in its own right, watched over by a large statue of St. Peter. Attractive old houses, some of the original adobe construction, line the steep streets.
At around 11:30 we climbed the train and started the ride through spectacular views of mountains and valleys. A guide was positioned in our car and described the highlights, including an explanation and the history
of the route, in both Spanish and English, as we passed the amazing highland landscapes. The guide told us that this section of track recently underwent a 5 milli
on dollar renovation, so the chance of derailing (which used to be a common inconvenience) is greatly reduced. When someone asked a permission to ride the train on the roof, the guide explained that riding on the roof of the train is no longer a part of the tour and is no longer permitted for safety reasons (there was a fatality in 2006).
================================================================================================================================================================================
The highlight of the trip was right before we arrived to our final destination where a series of 'switchbacks' took place. We arrived at a steep bank and the engine was reversed to push the train along the next uphill section, then went forward again on the next section. This was repeated until the train got to the top. (The train needed much bigger turning point, hence the 'switchbacks').
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived to what used to be a train station and turned into a culture center. A sandwich was served in the restaurant along with a soft drink and coffee. We climbed about 50 stairs and arrived at an observatory where we found a bird-view panoramic spot where we could see the magnificent views 360 degrees. We then joined the rest of the crowd for a folklore dancing show, which was very entertaining, especially when they invited us all to dance with them.
================================================================================================================================================================================
The ride back was as fun and we returned to Alausi at around 2:00 PM.
We continued our day, driving the next 2.5 hours where half of the time we were in a very heavy fog. We arrived to Ingaprica, a town next to the famous Inca Ruins, where we stopped for a delicious ice cream. We then continued for a couple of miles and arrived at the ruins site.
The temperatures dipped somewhat and it was pretty chilly and windy. At the entrance Carlos stopped and gave us a brief history lesson: Ingaprica Ruins are the largest known Inca ruins in Ecuador and also best preserved pre-Colombian site, in the country. This complex was mostly a ceremonial site and it was 
known that the Inca emperor Huayna Capac (a famous person in the Inca Dynasty around the 15th century), himself spent time there. These impressive buildings, with the Sun temple (or Castillo) as its focal point, were
built on a pre-existing Cañari ceremonial site. (The Cañari nation was conquered by the Incas after a long and hard fight in the 1470's.). The people had numerous ritual celebrations. Gallons of a local stirred drink were used in these festivals. As sun and moon worshippers, they tried to be as close to their gods as possible.
The weather changes there are usually within minutes of each other, calm and sunny one minute and within fifteen minutes rainy, windy and cold. This climate volatility is typical year round. The people felt strongly that this was the place where the gods had led them, regardless of the climate.
We visited most of the sites and were once again impressed with the abilities of the Inca people to measure and build so accurately and in such fashion some 600 years ago. It reminded me a lot of what we had seen in Machu Pichu a couple of years ago.
Two hours later we arrived to Cuenca. It was already around 9:00 at night when we checked into Hotel Santa Lucia and were welcomed with two glasses of fresh squeezed juice. We found the most beautiful lobby, with tables and chairs in the opened spaced dining room, couches and sofas around and a partially glassed roof. There are only 20 rooms in the hotel and the atmosphere there was cozy and comfortable. We found out that this 4.5 stars hotel is ranked number 4 in all of Cuenca.
We started our walking tour. Carlos, who for the entire trip was brilliant with his knowledge, did not disappoint us here as well when he had the following details:
With a population of about 350 000 people it is Ecuador’s third largest city. Cuenca is unarguably the center of culture and art of Ecuador. For its charming historical center, the churches, the small cobbled streets and colonial houses with noble facades, wrought iron balconies and red tiled roofs, it was declared as World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in 1999. Cuenca is the center of the Panama Hat Industry (and not Panama as we originally thought…)
================================================================================================================================================================================
We spent about 20 minutes inside, looking at the worshippers and admiring the magnificent interior.
We took one of the streets and arrived to a street full of vendors, who sold all kind of colorful clothing, accessories, beauty supplies and more. Tova bought herself a nice shawl.
Not far from there we found the famous Indoor Food Market. The fruit vendors on the ground floor seemed to sell every type of fruit imaginable and quite a few kinds we’d never seen before but looked yummy. The second floor was all meat. Whole roasted pigs seem to be the in-thing here and all the ladies were all too keen to let us try their pork. Tova tried a piece and told me that though it was yummy, it was too salty.
================================================================================================================================================================================
The top floor was where the magic happened and the food was prepared. We spotted a lady who was deep-frying some empanadas. We sat down and paid $2 for 4 empanadas plus two glasses filled with fresh chocolate milk. The chocolate was melted right there on the spot, just before the lady served us the delicious and sweet drinks.
Our next stop was a Panama Hats Factory. The name we found at the door was Barranco. A nice lady was helping us trying them on and told us that genuine Panama hats are only made in Ecuador and it is believed the name “Panama Hat” was coined as they were shipped to Panama before being taken to markets in North America, Asia and the Caribbean. Roosevelt was seen wearing a Panama hat when he visited Panama to view the construction of the Panama Canal which increased its popularity. Panama Hats are still traditionally hand-made in Ecuador. Tova bought one of the hats for an amazing low price of $15. (Note: when we visited Panama City last February, Tova tried some Panama hats but there the prices started at $30).
================================================================================================================================================================================
We walked for a few minutes and arrived at the banks of the Tomebamba River, which separates the two parts of this 
historic city in Ecuador. We found several attractions along the river, including an old stone bridge that once crossed the river, but is now used as a lookout point. We saw the Iglesias Todos Los Santos, a white-painted church dating back to the nineteenth century, and admired the colonial homes alongside the banks of the river. At one point, Carlos led us to a staircase with many wide stairs, which led us back to the old city. We walked through the cobblestones streets, bought a couple of CD’s and returned to the hotel to pickup our luggage and the car.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Our next stop was at Turi Hill for a panoramic view of the city. This was an amazing place full of people crowding the few restaurants all watching the spectacular views of the city and beyond.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Tova mentioned earlier to Carlos that she needed her hair done in a salon. We stopped at the city mall: A modern complex with all the big names in fashion and famous chain restaurants. We found the salon on the second floor and while Tova was attended to, I opted to take a water massage.
We headed out off the city, driving along the peaceful river and into an area with wonderful landscaping. Once again we saw the farmers working their lands while others leading sheep, cows, and other animals.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived at El Cajas National Park and found a nice looking resort, nestled in the foothills of the breathtaking Park. The name on a large billboard said: Dos Correras (two streams). The resort had two restaurants: one along the highway and the other inside the resort, right next to a lodge. When we entered the first one, Carlos mentioned that we should also visit the second and that it has many other dishes on the menu. We left the drove to the second one, only to find a line of people outside. Someone told us that the wait is about a couple of hours. We returned to the f
irst restaurant and enjoyed a delightful meal, consisting of a fresh trout, right out of the lake next to the restaurant, and cooked vegetables.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We met few lamas along the way and continued climbing up the mountains. At the summit Carlos took a bottle of water, put it outside of the car’s window for few seconds and then sealed the bottle with its cap. He promised to show us what thin air can do to the air inside the bottle. A very dense fog welcomed us and we drove for about an hour in the fog and then it disappeared as we reached the bottom of the bottom of the foothills on our way to Guayaquil. As we reached the bottom of the mountain, Carlos pointed at the bottle: It shrank!!
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived to the city at around 7:30 pm. A beautiful sunset welcomed us as we entered the city, which is the largest one in the country with over 1.5 million people. Carlos told us a little of its rich history and once again impressed us with his knowledge: the city is one of the best ports along Latin America's Pacific coast, Guayaquil has industries manufacturing textiles, leather goods, cement, alcohol, soap, and iron products. Through its modern harbor are shipped cacao, 
coffee, and bananas, the principal exports of Ecuador. Between 1970 and 1990 the city's population nearly doubled. Guayaquil was founded by the Spanish conquistador Sebastián de Benalcázar in 1535. It was often subjected to attacks by buccaneers in the 17th & 18th centuries. It was destroyed repeatedly by fires in the 19th centuries. Traditionally a port city, Guayaquil is now focusing on upholding it's nickname as "Perla del Pacifico" (Pearl of the Pacific) where new constructions rise next to the old historic buildings.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived at our hotel: The Hampton Inn. Carlos waited for us in the lobby for a few minutes. We took Avenida 9 de Octubre and walked towards the Guayas River (only few minutes away from the hotel). Once we got there we saw a beautiful memorial monument, which is a tribute to Simon Bolivar and San Martin Liberators meeting on July 22nd, 1822 in the city. We learned that on this date, after great successes for both men across South America San Martin met with his fellow liberator Simon Bolivar in the city’s port, to discuss their further efforts to liberate the continent. While the specifics of the meeting are unknown, it resulted in San Martin’s retirement (in Europe) which left Bolivar to lead the anti-royalist forces and become known as the single great liberator of the continent.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Raindrops started to fall as we took the spectacular 2.5 kilometer long "Malecon 2000" pier, which became one of the main tourist attractions of the city over the past years. There were hundreds of people walking by. Along the way we spotted a botanical garden, restaurants, bars, shopping, cinemas, night clubs and more. Close to the end of the pier we spotted the historic Santa Ana Hill and "Las Peñas" neighborhood, surrounded by colorful houses is the oldest neighborhood in town where the city was founded. What stood out was the beautiful lighthouse on top of the hill. We opted to not climb the hill but instead to return to the hotel as rain now became a bit heavier.
We arrived to our hotel, packed for tomorrow’s trip and fell asleep at around 11:00.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Carlos, who slept once again in a different hotel, showed up at 6:40 and we headed to the International Airport for our upcoming flight to the Galapagos Islands.
After a short delay we boarded the AeroGal flight and landed 90 minutes later in Baltra Island, a small flat island located near the center of the Galapagos. After going through the Agriculture Department inspection, we paid the $100 pp dues and entered Paradise. A gentleman was waiting for all those to board the Legend Cruise and we boarded a bus, which took us to an awaiting boat. After a short ride we climbed the luxury cruise ship and were assigned our cabin. The Junior Suite consisted of 2 beds, TV, small bathroom, and a small dresser.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We unpacked and then entered the dining room for lunch. Later we met a nice family from Switzerland: Michelle, Eric, and their daughter Nodine. Travelling with them was Michelle’s nephew David.
An orientation was scheduled for 2:00 and we met our guide for the next 4 days: His name was Andres. We were taught “The Galapagos Greeting” technique when boarding or disembarking the ship: You need to give everything you are holding to the guide(s) so your hands can be free to hold onto the guide’s arm (not hand). We also learned the difference between Dry Landing (stepping directly from a dinghy onto rocks or a dock) and Wet Landing (When the dinghy edges toward the beach and you step into knee-deep water).
Our first excursion on this heavenly place took place at 4:00 when we boarded a small dinghy. After a 10 minutes ride we had a “Dry Landing” in North Seymour Island. We found a charming place, which was mostly flat and arid, with certain vegetation that includes Prickly Pear Cacti, Palo Santos Trees and Salt Bushes. The area of the Island is of approximately 2 km².
================================================================================================================================================================================
In the next hour and a half we found a rich variety of wildlife including sea lions sleeping alongside the paved road, passed close to the nesting areas of a colony of blue-footed boobies, witnessing the female boobies breeding their eggs. Predator birds were standing close by to the colony waiting for a chance to steal the eggs. 
At one point we saw the male booby bringing a fish to his beloved female and while “dancing” he transfers the fish into his spouse’s mouth. At another sight we saw an abandoned egg. We also saw many species of lizards, the adorable frigatebirds, a bald eagle observing the territory for his breakfast, lava gulls, swallow-tailed gulls, pelicans, and marine iguanas, who like to hang around as a group, sunbathing along the rocks.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We were lucky to arrive during the mating season of the frigatebirds, and witnessed a magnificent male frigatebird trying to attract females by displaying his beautiful red throat. Andres explained that the males have inflatable red-colored throat pouches, which they inflate to attract females during the mating season. On another tree we saw a frigatebird attracting not one but two females. He was standing in the middle of the branch, while each one of the two females waited in hope that he will pick her for mating.
We hiked for about an hour and a half and returned to the ship at around 6:00.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We had another orientation about tomorrow’s excursions and then to the dining room for dinner. As we walked out of the dining room we heard someone yelling: “Sharks on both sides of the ship”.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We rushed to the deck and saw about 20 sharks, a couple of sea-lions and a pelican alongside the ship. They were all hunting for the fish, which were attracted to the huge headlight lamps positioned on each side of the ship. This was an amazing sight, as we all felt that we watching the National Geography channel.
I took many pictures but only few came out good, as the sharks were moving so fast and my camera could not get a clear picture of them moving in the dark.
We hit the beds at around 11:00
================================================================================================================================================================================
Wake up was at 6:00 and after breakfast we boarded the dinghy, which took us for a “Dry Landing” at Dragon Hill in the Santa Cruz Island. the island is one of the newest visitor's sites on Santa Cruz Island. Named for the large number of land iguanas that frequent the area, Dragon Hill has become an important nesting site for iguanas reintroduced there by the Charles Darwin Research Center.
================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
We found various species of flora and fauna. The island was very sparse and dry of vegetation with huge cactus and cotton trees.
However, amazingly there were lots of birds and insects around. The first thing we saw was an amazing salt water lagoon with lots of wading birds.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We continue on the trail and saw our first land iguana. It was a bright yellow male about 4 feet long sun bathing – very different to the marine iguanas we had encountered yesterday. They look like dragons because of their claws and spiky crests. They do not live in huge groups like the marine iguanas but in solitary except at breeding season. They have their own “territories” that they fiercely patrol and guard from intruders. Young iguanas are easily preyed upon by predatory birds and snakes; otherwise they can live up to 60 years of age. They feed of the cactus trees, which we saw all over the island. Andres told us that in true Galapagos style the cactus, has responded by growing tall and woody - up to 33 feet high and are the largest of their kind in Galapagos.
We also saw along the trail mockingbirds, Darwin finches, yellow warbles, and Galapagos doves.
We returned to the ship, had a great lunch and then climbed to the moon deck where we were all given snorkeling gear, for our afternoon excursion. We entered the cabin and slept for three hours!
================================================================================================================================================================================
At 4:30 we climbed into the dinghy once again and had a “Wet Landing” at Floreana Island.
We started to walk on a 400 meters trail, which separated the beach where we landed to another one. On the way we saw a salty pond with few flamingoes in it. It was such a great sight to watch this royalty bird walking in the wild. We then continued on the trail and saw a couple of blue footed-boobies, a couple of Darwin finches, shorebirds, and Iguanas.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived to a coral-sand beach and spotted beautiful sally crabs resting on the rocks. They were colored in red and magnificent in their size.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We then returned to the same trail leading to the greenish-colored beach where we first landed, put on the snorkeling gear and jumped into the comfortable water. I swam about half a mile and arrived to a coral reef where I saw lots of sea creatures I have never seen before al
ong with sea turtles, a variety of reef fish, and sting rays. At one point I was diving when I noticed that 2 baby sea lions were swimming alongside me. This was an experience I will never forget. It felt so weird and to be honest, I didn’t know how to react and had a bit of fear of the unknown. I kept diving with them for a couple of minutes until they just left. A couple of minutes later I found out why they did when I noticed a reef shark about 15 meters away. I spent about an hour swimming, diving and exploring. It was a great experience.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We returned to the ship at around 7:00 and were asked to go to the Moon Deck for a Bar-B-Q dinner. Here they served us with steaks, chicken, fish, vegetables kebob and delicious deserts. It was a buffet style dinner, which we both enjoyed so much.
Right after dinner we were invited to an orientation session, regarding tomorrow’s excursions. We returned to the cabin and decided to get one of the DVD’s offered at the receptionist area. We started to watch the movie and about half way through, a huge wave hit the ship, which swung from side to side and as a result, our cabin became a mess when all kind of things started to fly over from high grounds to the floor. Luckily I stored the cameras in the bag earlier. It lasted about a minute and when we assessed the damage, we found a broken night-stand, a couple of broken cups and many things that found their way under our beds.
================================================================================================================================================================================
After a rocky sleepless night we had breakfast and then boarded the dinghy and dry landed in Suarez Point at the island of Espanola. This morning's adventure was like something out of a time machine. If I had to close my eyes and imagine what the Galapagos would be like, this would have been it.
The waves off the west coast of the island are some of the largest in the Galapagos, however, our dinghy operator got us to shore behind some weather worn lava rocks for an easy landing. We were greeted by a dozen or so playful sea lions honking, calling, and barking.
================================================================================================================================================================================
The water was a deep blue accented with white lacey foam, sea birds making loud harsh cry, which sounded like crows, flying overhead. 
The sun was just beginning to peak over the top of the island that we were about to explore.A large, handsome, turquoise and red male marine iguana stood guarding over the path as we started our hike along the jagged, lava rock shoreline.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We passed a waved albatross colony. Dozens of birds engaged in ritual courtship dances while others quietly guarded their eggs. I could not believe the size of their wing-spans. It was over 10 feet and looked amazing. Andres revealed to us that this bird returns to Espanola Island every year at the end of March and stays here until the last days of the summer. It is the largest sea bird in Galapagos.
Hiking the trail we spotted a beautiful lava lizard as we walked past a colony of nesting blue-footed boobies, cautiously guarding their nests, giving a peck with their beaks if you got too close. We also spotted few doves, herons, an eagle, and a beautiful hawk.
================================================================================================================================================================================
On the cliffs we were able to see our first nazca boobies, the largest of the boobies. These are beautiful white birds with a pointed orange/red beak, dark grey feet and distinctive black fabric on the ends of their wings.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Roosting alongside the blue and nazca boobies were the swallow-tailed gulls, the only gulls to feed at night. We also saw small songbirds, called Finches, and hood mockingbirds.The black cliffs in the distance were hazy from the mist of crashing waves.
Bright red sally crabs accented the black lava rocks while lazy sea lions punctuated the dynamic shoreline. The dramatic setting among the black cliffs, the never-ending rolling and crashing of the waves below, and the beautiful scenery of the blowhole, where the water shot over 20 meters made a great impression on me and will stay with me for a very long time.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We crossed over the top of the island, by far the hardest hiking we have had to do. The trail was a worn path across a lava field, with no two steps being the same or on equal ground. The passage was jagged and slippery - you took a step - looked around at the wildlife, took a picture or two - then looked down and took another step or two. It was impossible to NOT watch where you were going.At the cliffs on the eastern side of the small island we paused to watch the waves, listen to the songs of the birds and take in the beauty.
================================================================================================================================================================================
The dinghy was waiting for us and once again the rough ocean was a key player as we returned to the ship.
Lunch was tasty as usual and we used the rest of the afternoon for some social activities around the bar and then headed for our cabiin for catching up on our sleep.
As our ship arrived to our next destination, the island of San Cristobal, we saw a marina full with boats and characteristics of a populated city in front of us (later we found out that about 5000 people live there). We reached the port with our dinghy. The island is the easternmost island in the Galapagos and famous for its center for breeding giant Galapagos tortoises, the most recognized symbol of the Galapagos. (The islands common name is Spanish for saddle; referring to the shape of the Galapagos tortoise shell).
================================================================================================================================================================================
A bus was waiting for us and drove through the town to the countryside as we arrived to the center, which is actually a huge park (over 4600 square ft.).
We used the trail and walked around looking for the huge turtles. After viewing the breeding center we spotted, next to a pond an average sized tortoise having lunch. Few minutes later we spotted a much bigger tortoise with shells measuring over 40 inches. He was far from the trail and we had no way of getting closer to him. At the end of the trail we found a pretty big tortoise, which made the highlight of this brief visit. He was very close to us as our cameras started to shoot. If it wasn’t for this last turtle this excursion would have been a huge disappointment as we all expected so much from this visit.
The bus took us back to town where we entered an Internet Café to check our emails and then did some shopping for souvenirs.
As we boarded our dinghy we noticed two sea lions “fighting” over a spot on a motor boat in the marina, as if they were playing to entertain us.
We were back on the ship at 6:30 and after dinner we all gathered for a good-bye party at the theater.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We woke up at 6:00. The ship already arrived to Carrion Point, located in the northern part of the island of Santa Cruz. After breakfast we boarded the dinghy and had a pleasant ride around the island. We saw few sea lions, pelicans, a frigatebird and few herons.
We returned to ship an hour later and hung around the pool. Brunch was provided later and it was time to say goodbye as we arrived to Baltra.
We arrived to Quito after a short lay-over in Guayaquil and our loyal guide Carolos was waiting for us outside the terminal.
We walked around, stopped at a place where they roast peanuts, corn, and almonds and bought a bag full of the fresh products for under a dollar. We also stopped and bought fresh empanadas. I loved this street and wished we could hang around some more, but it was getting late ad we returned to the car, which took us to a familiar building: the Hotel Quito.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We checked in and after packing and last visit to the Internet Center I concluded my day with a swim at the pool while Tova visited the hair salon in the hotel. We called it a night at around 9:30.
We arrived to Panama City and to our connecting flight to LAX.
Notes: 1. Escaped To Latin America Website is: http://www.escapedtoperu.com/
2. Carlos Avila Contact: CaitosJose01@Hotmail.com
Your comments and feedback are welcome. Please leave your comments below (Just click 'Post a comment').
If you wish to view the entire photo album online (some 3500 pictures!), please email your request to: Aviram.Oren@Gmail.com and I will send you the link.
More Journals
We found out that the airport was right there in the center of the city. Carlos told us that Quito's Mariscal Sucre International Airport has long been considered dangerous, too small and a nuisance to the city’s residents. A new airport 18 kilometers to the northeast was to solve the problem. However, political and legal disputes over the 2002 contract stalled financing of the project. It is estimated that the new airport will be in operation in the next couple of years.
Our hotel in Quito was Hotel Quito (simple to remember – that’s for sure!). The attractive 4.5 stars hotel is situated in a picturesque setting at the edge of the new part of Quito. We found an expansive view from our hotel room and even more from the 7th floor restaurant. There is a large pool, a gym, Jacuzzi, steam room and a sauna all situated next to a huge garden with many beautiful flowers and trees. What we were impressed with the most though, was the excellent service by the loyal staff.
As we had the afternoon off, we wondered the streets next to the hotel and found a clean and intimate restaurant where we had an early dinner. We then returned to the hotel and used the pool for some swimming around where we met 2 Americans Tim & Mike from New Hampshire, who are in Ecuador on an educational tour (They are both teachers).
We returned to our room at around 7:00 and after about an hour checking our emails, in the hotel’s Internet Center, we returned to our room and called it a night.
================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 2: June 10th, 2011
We woke up at 7:00 and headed to the 7th floor for breakfast. We sat at the window, enjoying the unbelievable views of the valley below. After a visit to the Internet Center we met with Carlos and started our day.
We drove though New Town, a lively, modern section of the city. The new town is a bustling place with most modern conveniences. The skyline is filled with towering apartments, hotels, embassies and offices. Restaurants, cafes, discos, stores and palm trees align the broad avenues.
We arrived to the “San Antonio Neighborhood” where the view changed to low income housing. The contrast was obvious where instead of the modern building and clean streets we saw old homes with graffiti and cracks on the walls.
The main event for the day was next.
We arrived to a village, which according to modern GPS is THE Middle of the World.
A guide took us through the exhibits, which included some Indian exhibits.
We were standing next to a line that actually divides the two hemispheres. The guide placed a water sink on each side of the equator and on the equator itself. At each position he filled the sink with water and then when he let the water drain out, the water circled from left to write in the Northern Hemispheres, right to left on the Southern side and straight in the middle, when the sink was over the line. He then challenged us to position a raw egg on a small holder, while standing on the center divider of the earth. Few of us (including myself) were able to stable the egg and received a certificate for it.================================================================================================================================================================================
A line down the center was meant to mark the equator. Tova & I stood only inches apart from each other, on both of a dividing line and were in two separate hemispheres. (I cracked a joke
that for some couples it feels the same way at home too…)
We left the village and after a (very) short drive arrived to Mitad del Mundo (Spanish: Middle of the World). We first stopped at the Museo Etnográfico Mitad del Mundo, a museum about the indigenous ethnography of Ecuador, and the monument.
================================================================================================================================================================================
The main attraction was next. We arrived to a 30-meter-tall monument, which was constructed
e point where the equator passes through the country, believed originally in 1736. According to the current GPS systems and computer mapping (Like Google Earth), the equator is placed at the village we had visited earlier, about 240 meters north of the marked line. I took the elevator to the top of the monument and found a breathtaking 360 degree view of surrounding mountains. I used the stairs coming down where I visited a nice museum and saw the exhibits, dedicated to the local Indigenous population.================================================================================================================================================================================
Our next stop was Rumicucho Ruins, which are Ecuador's most significant pre-Incan site.
Carlos explained that the name means in the Indigenous language “Corner Stone Fortress”. The site, built at the foot of Mount Fuya Fuya, is perfectly aligned with the white capped summit of Volcan Cayambe (a volcano located in the Ecuadorian Andes) and with the Puntiachil site, another ancient monument. Although its actual significance is unknown, Rumicucho is a sacred site, a meeting place for the spirits on the longest day of the year. I am sure that the site’s proximity to the Middle of The World as some significance as well.
================================================================================================================================================================================
After the visit we drove for about 15 minutes and arrived to Pululahua Crater. 
Once we 
arrived at the top of the mountain (4,000 feet above sea level!), a breathtaking view was laid underneath us. Carlos explained that Pululahua is a Quichua (an indigenous language) word that means “cloud of water” or fog. It is a collapsed volcano with great biodiversity and unique geological formations. We entered the Crater Restaurant and had a terrific typical lunch, which included a fish plate and vegetables and concluded with a delicious fruit juice. A unique desert and café con leche were served as well.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Once we 
arrived at the top of the mountain (4,000 feet above sea level!), a breathtaking view was laid underneath us. Carlos explained that Pululahua is a Quichua (an indigenous language) word that means “cloud of water” or fog. It is a collapsed volcano with great biodiversity and unique geological formations. We entered the Crater Restaurant and had a terrific typical lunch, which included a fish plate and vegetables and concluded with a delicious fruit juice. A unique desert and café con leche were served as well.================================================================================================================================================================================
We returned to the hotel at around 3:00 and decided to skip the afternoon rest and continue on our own. Our hotel is standing tall on a mountain and the village built on the side of the mountain is called Guapulo. We took the only road that leads to the bottom of the mountain and headed down, huffing and puffing as we slowly waked the slope in the high altitude. Besides the marvelous views we found out that the neighborhood is a home to many local artists and has a couple of hipster cafés/bars.
================================================================================================================================================================================
It took us about 30 minutes and we arrived to Santuario de Guapulo. A church situated near Tumbaco Valley and is dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe whose figure was made by the famous sculptor Diego de Robles. A plaque revealed to us that the church was built on 1596. It has the usual Latin-cross form of the Colonial Spanish churches. There is also a high school in the
back of the church. The church was closed but a woman who arrived to light a candle came to the rescue. The guard opened the door for her and we asked a permission to enter as well. We found that the interior was covered was gold and the entire room was just unbelievable pretty with unique paintings and a gorgeous sculpture.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We headed up the mountain, back to our hotel, and found out that it was so much easier to climb up than down. We made it in 20 minutes (!).
================================================================================================================================================================================
As Tova decided to check and reply to her emails, I headed down to the pool and after 30 minutes swim, sat in the hot Jacuzzi, and followed by a 15 minutes visit in the steam-room.
We decided to skip dinner as our late lunch was enough for both meals and went to sleep at 9:30.
================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 3: June 11th, 2011
We woke up at 6:30 and after breakfast we checked out from the hotel and met with Carlos. We drove the main avenue toward the airport in a very slow pace. In one of the intersection we spotted the cause for the heavy traffic: an accident occurred in one intersection resulting in a fatality. We saw a body of a man lying down on the street. The view was very hard to take. Many bystanders watched as the police were taking charge, measuring and taking pictures. The half covered body of the young man and the pool of blood around him will be a sight I will never forget.
Once at the airport we met with a representative of La Selva Lodge, who took care of our flight arrangements.
While waiting for the flight to Coca we met with David & Maria from Germany, who are here in Ecuador a part of their diploma program to become certified tour guides. They too were heading to the lodge. The 30 minutes flight was pleasant and the views from the airplane’s window were spectacular.================================================================================================================================================================================
Once on the ground, we met with a young man named Louis, representing the lodge, and were driven to a dock where we were transferred to a motorized canoe. The ride down the Napo River was unique and reminded us the ride we took few years back in Peru. Joining us on the boat were indigenous natives who were going home somewhere in the jungle, after spending the day and night in Coca, which is the central city for all indigenous natives who live in the Ecuadorian’s Amazon Rain Forest. In the “big” city is where they shop, see a (conventional) doctor, or just come to have a good time and visit relatives. One of the riders was a young woman with her baby. As the baby cried she removed her shirt and breath fed her without any shame or concern that other strangers were around her.================================================================================================================================================================================
On our way we spotted a location, were tractors and other heavy machineries disturbed the harmony and peaceful atmosphere of the jungle. They were drilling for oil and by doing so they removed many trees, leveling the grounds for their purpose. One of the natives on the boat spitted towards the machines as other watched and agreed with his behavior with a nod of their heads.
After a three hour ride we arrived at a bank of the river where we met a representative from the lodge. As our luggage were carried by employees of the lodge, we walked for a few minutes to a location where a rowing canoe was waiting for us in front of a beautiful lagoon. We sailed for about 30 minutes through beautiful flora and arrived at a small lake where we saw La Selva Lodge, deep in the Amazon Rainforest.
================================================================================================================================================================================
A young woman, who later introduced herself as Amy, was fishing from the dock and as we arrived she told us that if she is lucky we will have fish for dinner.
We entered the bar (Yes: they do have one at every lodge in the Amazons) and complimentary tropical drinks were served along with delicious appetizers. We met with 
Marco, our guide and naturalist for the next 3 days, who gave us a presentation (in perfect English, I might add) and also told us the rules of the lodge. Later we were led to our cabin with the name: Jaguar. (Cabins at La Selva do not have numbers but instead they have names of animals from the jungle).================================================================================================================================================================================
We found the cabin to be spacious, simple but very comfortable. A big comfortable bed in the middle of the room with a mosquito net, the bathroom had all modern amenities (mirror, toilet, power shower with good water pressure), and a nice deck in the front of the cabin with a bathtub and 2 reclining chairs.================================================================================================================================================================================
We met our group later at dinner. They included: Amy, David, Maria and a family, who were originally from Ethiopia: Shani & Khanoch (brother and sister) and their father Ephraim.
After the delicious dinner (which included some of the fish that Amy was able to catch) we met with Marco and his skilled assistant Manuel as we planned to tour one of the paths to discover some night life in the jungle but to as rain started to pour rather heavily, Marco changed his plans and instead took us first to a butterfly farm, not far from the lodge.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We spent about an hour in the farm and received a very interesting explanation about the butterflies. Marco told us that La Selva Farm produces as many as 20,000 butterflies per year from eggs to caterpillars for export purposes. They send pupae (insect at the stage between a larva and an adult) to such diverse locations as a zoo in Holland, a castle in France, and Cypress Gardens in Florida where they fly in enclosed botanical gardens. We saw different kind of butterflies, some of them were very colorful and I could not stop wondering about how nature created them so symmetric and how their colors were used to survive the jungle life.
The rain subsided and we embarked the rowing canoe, and sailed quietly in the lagoon, spotting on our way some wild turkeys, caimans, birds and other wildlife animals.
We returned to our cabin at around 9:00 as rain started to pour again. “No wonder they call it ‘Rainforest’”, I told Tova before falling asleep.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 4: June 12th, 2011
We woke at around 6:30 as a storm came in to our little neck of the woods.
We wore our rain gear (including a rain-poncho and boots) and headed to the spacious dining room for a delicious and heart warming breakfast.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Marco informed us that due to the storm we have a change of plans and will start the morning visiting a family of natives of the jungle.
The canoe took us down the lagoon and merged into the Napo river minutes later. We then arrived at a location where we walked into the property – a typical home of the jungle residents.
The living quarters were very simple for the four adults and two babies.
The head of the house, the father, sat with us and talked about their life-style, while Marco, who knows few dialects of the indigenous natives plus Spanish and of course English, translated back and forth. The two women were working in the open kitchen area and also did some other chores, while the rain was still pouring down hard. After about 30 minutes a drink called Chicha (Native’s beer) was served in a big bowl, while each and every one of us took a sip from it.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We learned about their life-style, the way they hunt, shop, cook, and more.
At one point, a rooster was making a big noise. The men ran towards him and found out he hunted something that looked to us like a snake but turned out to be a huge worm.
================================================================================================================================================================================
On our way back to the canoe, we were taught on how to shoot an arrow from a blowgun,. I was able to hit one of the three arrows in the middle of the target!
We returned to camp for lunch and to our relief, the rain has stopped.
We joined Marco and Manuel and walked into the heart of the jungle for about 30 minutes exploring the beauty of nature.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived at a huge tower and climbed to the top of it. The views from the roof of the rainforest were just unbelievable.
The highlight came at around 6:30 when the sun set in the west. The sky became reddish and many flocks of birds were flying all over.
We returned to the camp, using a different path this time. At dinner we said goodbyes to Ephraim and his two kids and went to sleep at around 9:00.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 5: June 13th, 2011
Happy Father Day, Aviram!
During dinner last night, David asked Marco if it is possible to return to the tower in the morning to witness sunrise. Marco agreed and I asked to join them as well.
I woke up at 4:30 and joined Manuel, David and Maria. A beautiful Owl was at our cabin’s roof and Manuel aimed his flashlight at him. We arrived in about 20 minutes and once we reached the top we sat quietly in the darkness and waited.
================================================================================================================================================================================
At around 5:10 we heard a commotion in the jungle. Animals were yelling and birds were flying all over the place. “It started” said Manuel and then we saw the huge ball of fire in the east. The sky started to turn red in the horizons and the animals continued to sing their morning’s songs. A symphony orchestrated by nature. It was a sight I will probably remember the rest of my life: the colors, the sounds, and the smell. Wow!!================================================================================================================================================================================
On our way back to the lodge we spotted a family of monkeys jumping from tree to tree. We also found beautiful and curious birds that looked at us as asking: “What ARE you doing here this time of the morning?”
After breakfast, we all gathered at the bar as Marco explained that after a huge rain that we had yesterday, the parrots will come today to a rock where they will lick, as part of their diet, clay from a rock.
================================================================================================================================================================================
When I asked Marco why the parrots need to lick the clay in order to survive, he explained that a study was made on that subject and they found out that although many of the fruits, seeds and flowers that make up a significant part of a their diet, have evolved with naturally occurring toxins designed for the plant’s self-protection, the birds tend to choose the soil with the highest sodium content over soils that are best for neutralizing toxins.
Once again we used the rowing canoe and then a motored canoe, which waited for us at the intersection of the river and the lagoon and we arrived to a Park where we paid our entrance fees and then arrived to the rock.After only a few minutes the sky was filled with hundreds of parrots aiming to the trees around the rock. We sat there quietly taking picture after picture of the amazing sight.
The birds were about to start their traditional licking but something held them back. Marco & Manuel took a couple of binoculars and started “touring” each and every inch of the trees.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Manuel was the one to find out why the parrots are not advancing to the wall and from the back of the canoe told Marco (in the native language) the reason. Marco then aimed his binoculars towards one of the trees and with a lot of excitement told us that a boa snake was ambushing the parrots and is right now consuming the corps of one of the beautiful birds, he had just killed. At the beginning I had difficulties identifying the snake but then Marco pin-pointed the location and my camera started to wok overtime. Though it was a unique sight, it was a disappointment as the parrots were done for the day and did not even dare to come closer.
I joined once again to Manuel, Maria and David as we chose to walk back to camp, while the other group, including Tova, opted to go to the cultural center with Marco and then to continue to a cave where (with a bit of luck) they will be able to see other parrots licking clay from a rock on top of a cave.
Our small group advanced in the forest and watched many animals’ species, frogs, birds, and the wild flora. Manual was such an expert, leading s through his beloved jungle and was the happiest guy in the world when he found something to show us. At one point he made a “jungle crown” out of the same plant that is used for Panama hats. Maria wore the “crown” with so much joy.
We arrived to camp a couple of hours later and when Marco’s group returned Tova told me that they had a great time at the cultural center. It was entertaining and enjoying listening to one of the women, describing their life in the jungle, their costumes, and their rights as women. She also enjoyed watching the girls perform traditional dancing while singing folklore music and Tova also volunteered to be treated by an Indian Medicine Man, who chased away the bad spirits from her body…
The highlight of their tour was at the cave where hundreds of parrots had a fiesta licking clay. Tova even took some great picture to prove her point.
At lunch we were introduced to a new group of people who arrived today: 2 friends from Canada and a mother and her daughter from San Francisco.
After lunch we took a nap for a couple of hours and then joined the others for an afternoon walk in the jungle. We walked for about 30 minutes to an awaiting canoe, which took us through thick flora and interesting fauna.
At one point I touched a branch that was going to scratch me, as the canoe passed by it. I discovered a red ant on the palm of my hand. My instinct was to brush the ant away and I did. In about 10 seconds my hands was burning with heat. The ant bit me around my pinky and the poison spread all over the front of my hand. I told Marco about it and he said that if I will not be over in a few minutes, we will have to treat it. Luckily though, it gradually disappeared until it was gone completely, about 20 minutes later.
We returned to camp and to once again a delicious dinner and then we all gathered around as we prepared for a night walk through the thick and wild forest. You can’t have a Jungle Night Walk without jungle! As we waited for the walk to start a light rain began to fall. We (Tova & I) were prepared with proper clothing and waterproof ponchos. But some of the others were only wearing sweatshirts. That was going to suck! Who goes to the “rain forest” with only a sweatshirt? Luckily for them (and us) the rain had stopped few minutes later and we all pulled out our cameras and started looking for targets to “shoot”.
This walk was the best one of all as we watched the all kind of species and animals at night. We saw a huge spider in the middle of its web, many leafcutter ants, snakes, lizards, frogs, different kind of birds. The sounds of the jungle, the smells, and the sight will be remembered by me for a long time.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 6: June 14th, 2011
We woke up at 4:30 and entered the dining room at 5:00 for our last meal at the lodge.
At 6:00 we boarded the rowing canoe, which took us to the meeting point with the motored canoe on the river.
The ride took about two and a half hours and we were back in Coca at around 9:00. As we arrived to the small port we noticed few animals, who were hanging around.
Louis showed up minutes later and we were on our way to our awaiting plane at the airport. Rain started at around 9:30 and our flight was delayed for 30 minutes.
Upon our arrival at Quito we met with Carlos who took us back to Hotel Quito.
Tova did not even walked up to the room and used the Internet to see what she was missing in the last 3 days. I took care of the luggage and then went to the pool for a nice swim, Jacuzzi and steam-room. “Welcome back to civilization” I told myself.
At around 2:30 we walked the main streets next to the hotel and managed to buy some clothes. We found a little restaurant where they served terrific Ceviche’, fried calamari, and paella full with clams, shrimps, sea bass and sausages. The plates were enormous and the food simply delicious. We consumed the entire meal as the waiter looked on not believing what his eyes are seeing.
When we returned to the hotel I opted to take a nap and rest my back, as it has been bothering me for the last couple of days. Tova returned to the Internet Center.
We called it a day at around 9:00, skipping dinner.
================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 7: June 15th, 2011
When I opened my eyes up at 6:30, Tova was already up. Her entire body was covered with mosquito bites. She was in agony, as she scratched them hard. My body did not have any sign of the mosquito bites.
After breakfast and a short visit at the Internet Center, Carlos showed up and once seeing Tova’s condition we headed to a local pharmacy where we bought a lotion to calm her down.
Our first stop was at the Ecuadorian’s Assembly House. There was actually nothing to see there and Carlos gave us a short lecture about the way the government operates in the country.
We continued to Itcimbia or as it also called: Crystal Palace Cultural Center. We were stunned by the beauty of the palace and the stunning panoramic views we could see from this site. Located on one of Quito's most important hillsides, at 2900 meters, it is the home to a profound history as a sacred site for civilizations that predate Incan presence in the country.================================================================================================================================================================================
Carlos gave us a brief history on the site and mentioned that this area was formerly the 19th-century steel and glass Santa Clara Market and it is now the city's newest and most impressive attractions. The Cultural Center is used for a variety of exhibitions and events, and features state-of-the-art technology under an impressive, modern glass structure that can be seen glowing in changing colors from many points of the city at night. The center was closed but nevertheless, we enjoyed our stay there thanks to the beautiful views of the city and its surroundings.
We climbed the van and headed towards the Old City. In one of the intersections our driver and another driver started an argument on who has the right of way. The other driver cursed and gestured some unpleasant signs with his finger. He also cursed Carlos. Before we understood what was going on, both men stepped out of their car and started a fist fight. The other driver was a big fellow, about 6’2” with tattoos all over his hands and let me remind you that Carlos, though very healthy, is about 5’6 at the most. We were stunned. It was David versus Goliath to say the least. The hundreds of cars behind us started to honk and drivers came out of their cars yelling and screaming. I was trying to get out of the van and help Carlos but he did not need any help: As the big guy swung and missed, Carlos landed one right on the side of his face. It could have gotten worse but to our luck, a policeman showed up and separated the two hombres. Carlos returned to the van and apologized to us. He told us that the policeman asked the two drivers to settle right there or face court. We drove for a couple of minutes and the other car followed us, while the policeman walked the distance to a place where they both once again came out of their cars, argued some more but then shook hands to prove to the policeman that this thing is behind them. Carlos asked me if I am about to report the incident to his managers and I told him that I had no intentions but I will write about it in my journal.================================================================================================================================================================================
Minutes later we arrived to a street where a beautiful cathedral stood there: Basilica del Voto. Carlos, who to our surprise was calm as nothing had happened this morning, was brilliant with his knowledge: The basilica is the most important work of Neo-Gothic Ecuadorian architecture and is one of the most representatives of the Americas. It took over one hundred years to build and it is the largest neo-gothic basilica in the New World. The basilica arose from the idea, proposed in 1883, of building a monument as a perpetual reminder of the consecration of Ecuador to the Sacred Heart. (One of the most famous religious devotions to Jesus' physical heart as the representation of His divine love for Humanity)
Once we walked inside we discovered in the sanctuary 14 bronze images representing 11 apostles and three
evangelists. In the crypt, we saw a pantheon containing the remains of several heads of state. We walked the streets and arrived to a high school that once was a University. It had a beautiful library. ================================================================================================================================================================================
The streets were boasted with the city’s residents, vendors, tourists, kids running around, and many cars. The smell of the big city was a mixed of smoke, and the aromas coming out of the many restaurants and vendors. I was fascinated by the looks of the indigenous women and their clothing. They add so much culture and colors to the city and their expressions are unforgettable.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived home at 4:00 pm.We arrived at the Plaza Grande (formally known as Plaza de la Independencia). We passed by the famous Plaza Grande Hotel and noticed that the Israeli flag is among other flags raised in front of the hotel. To our question, Carlos told us that Israel plays a major role in developing the agriculture of the country and that Ecuadorians have lots of respect to the State of Israel and that many businessmen from the Holy Land come and stay at this hotel for it proximity to the Governor Palace and other government offices. The rate for a room at this hotel is around $600 (six-hundred US dollars a night!!!!) but usually the government will play host and will end up with the bill.================================================================================================================================================================================
the main square of Quito in the 16th century. Afraid the Incas might poison their water supply, the Spanish set up their own protected well here, and this plaza subsequently became the social center of town. It also served as a central market and bullfighting area. Today, Old Town's main square is bordered by the Government Palace to the west, City Hall to the east, the Archbishop's Palace to the north, and the cathedral to the south.================================================================================================================================================================================
We watched couple strolling hand-in-hand, men in business suits breezing by, shoe shine boys trying to make a few quarters, and Indigenous women selling their products. 
We entered the Presidential Palace or Government Palace, passing by 2 uniformed soldiers. It is considered to be the most interesting building on the plaza. Carlos told us that we do not have any time on our agenda to tour the place inside as the tours are in Spanish only and last one hour. I was surprised and decided to check for myself. I spoke to one of the supervisors in the palace who told me that I
could arrange for an English speaking guide if we choose to return in the afternoon. He also added that the tour takes only 30 minutes.To our big disappointment we did not have the chance to tour the place and I was (and still am) upset as to why Carlos did not arrange it so we could see the beauty inside the palace. I also found out later that Carlos was more than welcome to enter the palace with us and that we did not need anyone else to guide us in English.================================================================================================================================================================================
We continued our day and arrived to San Francisco Square with the magnificent San Francisco Church, the most imposing of all Quito's architectural monuments, is a combination of a temple, a series of chapels, and a convent. All this together takes up nearly two whole blocks. Constructed between 1535-1605 the San Francisco Church and Monastery with its 104 Doric columns is the largest structure in colonial Quito. Built on an Incan holy site, it is the oldest church in South America and considered a great masterpiece of baroque art. Once inside we discovered how rich this church was: Every inch of wall and ceiling is paved with gold. The inside of the church is absolutely amazing in its beauty and richness.================================================================================================================================================================================
We met with our driver, who took us to out last attraction of the day: TeleferiQo, the brand new tourist attraction of Quito. We hopped on one of the gondolas and started the climb on the side of Pichincha Volcano. The ascent took approximately 10 minutes, traveling some 2500 meters while going from 2950 meters to 4050 meters altitude. At the summit we found an amusement park, a collection of boutiques and shops, and a couple of restaurants. We took one of the paths and arrived at a spot where we could see almost the entire city right there beneath us. The spectacular bird’s view made a big impression on me. I was able to spot the city’s soccer field, the new airport, the Old City and even our hotel in the New City. A traveler from Newport Beach, California told us he is going to climb the summit with his guide. Experiencing short of breath at around 13,400 feet, I felt sorry for the big fellow, who just arrived to the city the same morning and was not used to the thin air…
================================================================================================================================================================================
Once we reached down the mountain we asked Carlos to drop us off at a camping equipment store, , where we spent the next hour shopping. We found a great restaurant nearby and had the best meal, which included hot potatoes soup mixed with other vegetables and (to our surprise) an omelet. We also had Ceviche’ (With mix of sea fruits), and a traditional chicken plate.
We walked back to the hotel. Tova admired the way I could navigate in a new city.
Once at the hotel we checked our email, went to the pool for a one hour swim and enjoyed the hot water of the Jacuzzi.
We fell asleep at around 10:00
================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 8: June 16th, 2011
We woke up at 6:30 and after our routine breakfast and Internet, Ransen (our driver) showed up with his own private car and explained that the van is not allowed to enter the city that day as they are having a law which alternates between odd and even numbered plates allowed to enter the city. Carlos was waiting for us on the highway, outside the city.
Our first stop was at Calderon, known for its bread dough figurine. The little dough figures were decorated with traditional indigenous costumes from various parts of the country and we couldn’t believe our eyes how simple and beautiful they were. We also watched the native Ecuadorian at her work. It was simply amazing. As well as the traditional bread dough ("masapan") handicrafts; we got some great views of Quito and the valleys to its north and east.================================================================================================================================================================================
Our journey continued as we used the Pan American Highway and arrived to a stop along the way, Mira Lago, where Carlos promised us that we will visit the best panoramic restroom in the world. He was right. Visiting the restroom costs 25 cents and as you sit on the toilet, the green valley is right beneath you, as they have a glassed wall installed instead of a conventional wall.================================================================================================================================================================================
A boy and his lamas were posing above the restrooms, and a painter (Pablo) was showing off his beautiful pictures.
We arrived to Otavalo and the famous market at Plaza de los Ponchos. Otavalo was an area made up principally of farming communities due to the rich volcanic soils in this area, but with the growth of tourism, the town has begun to focus more on the making of handicrafts, which have made the Saturday market a popular stop with visitors to Ecuador. Tourism has become the town's main industry and as a results there are many more hotels and hostels. As the town is famous for its textiles, many of the nearby villages and towns are famous for their own particular crafts. Cotacachi (we will visit the place later on today), the center of Ecuador's leather industry, is known for its polished calf skins. In San Antonio, where the local specialty is wood carving (We would visit there later as well), the main street prominently displays carved statues, picture frames, and furniture.================================================================================================================================================================================
We spent an hour in the market and managed to buy few things there as well. At one point a young indigenous approached me and offered to make a leather belt for me. Once he measured my size, I selected the design of he belt and right in front of our eyes he cut the leather material, installed the necessary hardware and a beautiful belt was created. The cost: $5. I also purchased 2 beautiful shirts and Tova managed to buy few things as well. Overall, it was a great experience.================================================================================================================================================================================
Carlos was waiting for us next to his car and we continued our journey to a beautiful lake, in an ecological reserve area called Cotacachi Cayapas. The reserve contains about 752,000 acres of land and is located in the Imbabura Province of Ecuador. This nature reserve is partly rainforest. The park is mix of many biological zones but, the Andean and Sub-tropical zones are most common. The symbol of the reserve is a condor. The highlight for our tour was Cuic
ocha Lake, which lies in a volcanic crater and is 200 meter deep.
After viewing the lake we asked Carlos to wait for us at the entrance and we hiked down the Sendero Trail where we discovered many beautiful flowers and astonishing views.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Our next stop was at the town of Cotacachi, in the foothills of a volcano. Carlos waited in the car while we walked around the main street where we found approximately 80 shops selling vast quantities of high quality leather jackets, hats, luggage, handbags, wallets, belts, boots, shoes and even saddles. Tova purchased a nice leather bag but refused to purchase a nice leather jacket claiming she will have no place to wear it.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We continued our drive to Peguche, and found the restaurant where we had reservations for lunch. The name of this unique restaurant is Sumac Micuy. Here the local delicacies were prepared over firewood and in a bread oven to preserve their original flavor. Lunch, which was served by the owner, included quinoa soup, freshly picked corn-on-the-cob, lima beans with cheese, roasted chicken and guinea pig (called cuy), steamed potatoes and vegetables.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Our last stop was at a Wood Craft center called San Antonio de Ibarra, where we spent the next hour windows shopping and even bought a nice wooden plate.
We headed back to Quito and met Ransen along the highway. We hopped into his car and arrived to our hotel 30 minutes later.
We spent the next hour packing and (of course) checking our emails.
We called it a day at around 9:30.
================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 9: June 17th, 2011
We woke up at 6:00 and after a delicious breakfast, we checked out of the beautiful hotel (only temporarily as we were scheduled to spend there the last night in Ecuador as well).
We met with Carlos at around 8:00, stopped in the city at an ATM location, and then left the Capital heading south.
Our first stop was at a beautiful farm, turned into a resort hotel named Hosteria La Cienega, one of the best haciendas (farms) in Ecuador, located in the heart of the Ecuadorian Andes. Carlos, who was recognized by everyone in the staff, told us that the hotel is one of Ecuador's oldest colonial haciendas. Situated near the slopes of the majestic Cotopaxi Volcano and its National Park, this mansion has been the scene of important happenings in the scientific and social history of the country. Today, tastefully converted into a first-class hotel, La Cienega offers the unique experience of staying within its two-meter thick volcanic stone walls which stand as silent witnesses to the history of a people and the poetry of an era. The hacienda has 34 rooms. Among their services are: a restaurant with fine national and international cuisine, a bar, two seminar rooms, a chapel (especially for weddings), sports facilities, trout fishing, horseback riding and beautiful gardens.================================================================================================================================================================================
We spent about an hour there and then continued our trip toward a small town by the name of Baños de Agua Santa. It is located in the Andean highlands of the country under the smoke of volcano Tungurahua. Its name, which is Spanish for "Baths (of sacred water)," comes from the famous hydrothermal springs in the area. It's equally popular with foreigners as with Ecuadorians and is known as the adventure capital of Ecuador. Carlos’ wife is from that town and her parents still live there.================================================================================================================================================================================
We parked the car and while Carlos opted to have lunch at a hotel we hit the streets and found that they are lined with hotels, restaurants, souvenir shops and tour agents. We found a small restaurant, operated by a family of three (mother, daughter and son). We had a delicious lunch and then walked the main street. We also met a Rabbi in the street. We talked to him (his name was Eli) and he told us that he was sent by Chabad to build a center for all Jewish people who travel the area. He invited us over to spend the weekend with his family (wife and 2 children) but we refused politely and told him that we are here for only a couple of hours.================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
On our way back we saw a beautiful church: The Church of the Virgin of the Holy Water. This neo-Gothic style church is named after the vision of the Virgin Mary seen near the come to thank the Virgin for many miracles and to ask for her blessing, appropriately named waterfalls and is therefore a place of pilgrimage for those who sing. It was built with many volcanic rocks and the inside is lined with paintings depicting the Virgin's miracles, including saving the church from multiple volcanic eruptions.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We also stopped at a street full of vendors. They all were selling one item: Sugar Canes. We bought a package full of sweet and juicy sugar canes and even had a glass full of sweet juice (Jugo de Caña), made freshly by the vendor.================================================================================================================================================================================
We met Carlos and headed towards the thermal baths nearby: La Piscina de La Virgen. It is the best-known bath in Baños. There are three baths altogether: one is cold, another is warm and a third reaches nearly 48°C (118°F), making it a truly scalding experience. The hot springs are believed to have healing powers. They contain minerals that turn the water brown, which make us presume that the water is dirty. 
When Tova saw that one of the kids was standing with his pants down and urinating straight to the bath, she opted not to try the hot natural hot water. It didn’t help when I tried to convince her that most people are peeing inside the pool anyhow and that there are many minerals that take care of it.
================================================================================================================================================================================
I entered the hot bath and spent about 45 minutes enjoying the hot water. Above the baths there was a wonderful waterfall: Cascada de La Virgen (Waterfall of the Virgin). I returned to the car to pickup the camera and hiked the many steps towards the top of the waterfall when suddenly I stepped awkwardly and twisted my back. The pain was unbelievable (and stayed with me for the rest of our visit at Ecuador and 2 weeks after we arrived home.)================================================================================================================================================================================
We continued our trip, passing Agoyan Hydroelectric Dam and stopped at a location just outside the town, where we climbed a cable car that took us across the waterfalls and river. It was so much fun and the views from the cable car were unbelievable.
We drove along the river, entering few tunnels and breathing in the beauty of nature. We arrived to a small village called Las Hortensias. We entered a path called Pailon Grieta al Cielo (A crack in the sky) and after hiking down the mountain for some 20 
minutes we arrived to an amazingly powerful and extremely huge waterfall. This was Cascada Pailon Del Diablo, which smashed water into the bowl below while sending clouds of mist flying all over, making it resemble a boiling pot. The waterfall is approximately 100 feet high. This beautiful and impressive waterfall has three waterfalls that because the same force with which they fall, they form an impressive whirlwind.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We climbed up the path, this time observing the beautiful flora alongside the path and arrived back to the village where we treated ourselves to a cold fresh orange juice.
Earlier today, Carlos mentioned that the road to Riobamba (our next destination) is closed, due to the Tungurahua Volcano eruption a couple of years ago. He continued and told us that the road’s crew is still working at it and it should be opened petty soon, and that we will need to take an alternative road today, which will prolong our trip by 2 hours! As we were ready to go to Riobamba I suggested that we should have some coffee before the long journey. Carlos agreed and we stopped at a nearby restaurant, not far from the dam.
While Carlos started to converse outside the restaurant with another guide that he knew, I went inside the restaurant and found a nice garden with two parrots, who were saying sentences in Spanish. Other guests said phrases to them and even whistled and the parrots cooperated. It was amazing. Once inside I asked if we can have a table for three for coffee only. The person at the register said that right now he was busy and that I should returned in 5 minutes. I went back to the car and fetched Tova to show her the garden and the two parrots. When the five minutes were over I went back inside and asked the person if okay to sit down. He was really busy with 6 clients who finished their meal and had their credit cards being rejected. I went outside and told Carlos we should continue and find another place for coffee. Carlos had some great news: He just learned (from his friend, he happened to meet while waiting for me) that the road to Riobamba was opened and that it will take us 45 minutes (versus 2.5 hours). We decided not to have coffee and go straight to the Riobamba.
We took the way back towards Baños and then entered an unpaved road that partially was covered with lava from the last eruption. It was so unique and so suspenseful. We were one of only few cars on that road; the time was nearly 8:00 in the evening and the sky were covered with clouds. On the right of the road there was a beautiful river that looked in the dark like a huge snake. On the left we saw along the way the dark mountains and some debris on the side from rock sliding.
On the way, Carlos told us a bit about the city: (full name San Pedro de Riobamba) is the capital of the Chimborazo Province. It is one of the largest cities in Ecuador and the huge (inactive) Chimborazo Volcano is located nearby as part of the Avenue of the Volcanoes. In 1797 a huge earthquake, with a magnitude of 8.3 on the Richter scale, caused the destruction of the city and killed over 40,000 people.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived to Riobamba at around 9:00 and checked in to the beautiful Hosteria Abraspungo Hotel, located in the countryside a few miles from the city. It is named after a glacial valley which is situated between the Chimborazo Volcano and Carihuairazo, in the exact center of Ecuador. The hotel used to be a farm (Hacienda) in its earlier days and had been converted to a beautiful and charming hotel.The Hacienda is adorned with old photographs and illustrations of Andean landscapes, which today constitutes as a testimony to years gone by. We found antiques on display in the social areas, which give a colonial flavor as well as a feel for the pre-Colombian cultures of the region. Our room was spacious and was decorated with Ecuadorian’s style. The hotel is ranked number 2 in the city.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We met for dinner an hour after checking in and the food plus service were perfect. The cost for a delicious, perfectly cooked, filet mignon dish was $10. We sat next to a fireplace and looked at the decorated walls. I felt like I am in a movie, sitting at a place that has so much history.
Later we stepped into the Internet center where photos of indigenous, in black and white, were all over the walls.
We went to sleep at around 11:00.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 10: June 18th, 2011
We woke up at 6:00 and went directly to the dining room where we had a delicious heart warming breakfast.
We started our journey at 6:45, driving through the main streets and arrived at the huge Guamote Indian Market, which was packed with local shoppers, buying dairy products, bread, meat, cloths, fruits, vegetables and even live animals such as chickens and guinea pigs. We decided to visit the market. Carlos stayed with the car as we walked along the many streets full of vendors and of course the colorful crowd.
I took many pictures of the faces in the market, in black & white, as I was influenced by the beautiful pictures we saw yesterday at the Hacienda.
We drove through beautiful landscapes and arrived to Alausi at around 10:30. Alausí is the railway town having the most famous train ride in Ecuador: Nariz del Diablo (or The Devil's Nose). In the 19th Century it was the most difficult railway construction in the world due to the sheer rock wall known as the Nariz del Diablo, below the town.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Carlos went to get our tickets for the famous train ride, while we walked the streets, as we had about an hour until departure. We found a pretty little town in its own right, watched over by a large statue of St. Peter. Attractive old houses, some of the original adobe construction, line the steep streets.
At around 11:30 we climbed the train and started the ride through spectacular views of mountains and valleys. A guide was positioned in our car and described the highlights, including an explanation and the history
of the route, in both Spanish and English, as we passed the amazing highland landscapes. The guide told us that this section of track recently underwent a 5 milli
on dollar renovation, so the chance of derailing (which used to be a common inconvenience) is greatly reduced. When someone asked a permission to ride the train on the roof, the guide explained that riding on the roof of the train is no longer a part of the tour and is no longer permitted for safety reasons (there was a fatality in 2006).================================================================================================================================================================================
The highlight of the trip was right before we arrived to our final destination where a series of 'switchbacks' took place. We arrived at a steep bank and the engine was reversed to push the train along the next uphill section, then went forward again on the next section. This was repeated until the train got to the top. (The train needed much bigger turning point, hence the 'switchbacks').
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived to what used to be a train station and turned into a culture center. A sandwich was served in the restaurant along with a soft drink and coffee. We climbed about 50 stairs and arrived at an observatory where we found a bird-view panoramic spot where we could see the magnificent views 360 degrees. We then joined the rest of the crowd for a folklore dancing show, which was very entertaining, especially when they invited us all to dance with them.================================================================================================================================================================================
The ride back was as fun and we returned to Alausi at around 2:00 PM.
We continued our day, driving the next 2.5 hours where half of the time we were in a very heavy fog. We arrived to Ingaprica, a town next to the famous Inca Ruins, where we stopped for a delicious ice cream. We then continued for a couple of miles and arrived at the ruins site.
The temperatures dipped somewhat and it was pretty chilly and windy. At the entrance Carlos stopped and gave us a brief history lesson: Ingaprica Ruins are the largest known Inca ruins in Ecuador and also best preserved pre-Colombian site, in the country. This complex was mostly a ceremonial site and it was 
known that the Inca emperor Huayna Capac (a famous person in the Inca Dynasty around the 15th century), himself spent time there. These impressive buildings, with the Sun temple (or Castillo) as its focal point, were
built on a pre-existing Cañari ceremonial site. (The Cañari nation was conquered by the Incas after a long and hard fight in the 1470's.). The people had numerous ritual celebrations. Gallons of a local stirred drink were used in these festivals. As sun and moon worshippers, they tried to be as close to their gods as possible.
================================================================================================================================================================================
The weather changes there are usually within minutes of each other, calm and sunny one minute and within fifteen minutes rainy, windy and cold. This climate volatility is typical year round. The people felt strongly that this was the place where the gods had led them, regardless of the climate.
We visited most of the sites and were once again impressed with the abilities of the Inca people to measure and build so accurately and in such fashion some 600 years ago. It reminded me a lot of what we had seen in Machu Pichu a couple of years ago.
As the site is on top of a hill, the views surrounding the hill are just beautiful. We saw farmers and their stock around the hills, as well as many lamas eating the grass at the grounds of the ruins.
Reluctantly we had to leave as we still had a long drive ahead.
Two hours later we arrived to Cuenca. It was already around 9:00 at night when we checked into Hotel Santa Lucia and were welcomed with two glasses of fresh squeezed juice. We found the most beautiful lobby, with tables and chairs in the opened spaced dining room, couches and sofas around and a partially glassed roof. There are only 20 rooms in the hotel and the atmosphere there was cozy and comfortable. We found out that this 4.5 stars hotel is ranked number 4 in all of Cuenca.
We were in bed at around 10:00.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 11: June 19th, 2011
We woke up at 6:00 and after a delicious fresh breakfast we visited the Internet desk and waited for Carlos, who showed up at 8:00 (He slept in a different hotel).
We started our walking tour. Carlos, who for the entire trip was brilliant with his knowledge, did not disappoint us here as well when he had the following details:
The former Inca town of Cuenca is situated at about 2500 meters in the southern part of the Andes. The city was conquered by the Spanish in 1533 and founded in 1557.
================================================================================================================================================================================
With a population of about 350 000 people it is Ecuador’s third largest city. Cuenca is unarguably the center of culture and art of Ecuador. For its charming historical center, the churches, the small cobbled streets and colonial houses with noble facades, wrought iron balconies and red tiled roofs, it was declared as World Heritage Site by the UNESCO in 1999. Cuenca is the center of the Panama Hat Industry (and not Panama as we originally thought…)
================================================================================================================================================================================
We drove a few miles and arrived to the Immaculate Church and Plaza Calderon. This is the most important religious monument in the city of Cuenca, and one of the biggest architectural works in the country. Its construction started in 1880 and it was finished in 1974 (94 years!). The cathedral, which is also called the "New Cathedral", has imposing blue tiled domes and two towers in the facade. The decoration inside is also impressive, mainly because of its beautiful stained-glass windows, the gold leaf altar piece and the huge pillars covered with pink marble. Different styles are found in the architecture of the Cathedral: Roman, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We spent about 20 minutes inside, looking at the worshippers and admiring the magnificent interior.
As we stepped outside we found the Flower Market (Mercado De Las Flores) where indigenous women with long hair and colorful dresses sold their flowers and bouquets. The market is located in front of the Church of El Carmen. This square is adorned by the façade of the temple which is made of carved stones. We also peaked inside the church.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We took one of the streets and arrived to a street full of vendors, who sold all kind of colorful clothing, accessories, beauty supplies and more. Tova bought herself a nice shawl.
Not far from there we found the famous Indoor Food Market. The fruit vendors on the ground floor seemed to sell every type of fruit imaginable and quite a few kinds we’d never seen before but looked yummy. The second floor was all meat. Whole roasted pigs seem to be the in-thing here and all the ladies were all too keen to let us try their pork. Tova tried a piece and told me that though it was yummy, it was too salty.================================================================================================================================================================================
The top floor was where the magic happened and the food was prepared. We spotted a lady who was deep-frying some empanadas. We sat down and paid $2 for 4 empanadas plus two glasses filled with fresh chocolate milk. The chocolate was melted right there on the spot, just before the lady served us the delicious and sweet drinks.
Our next stop was a Panama Hats Factory. The name we found at the door was Barranco. A nice lady was helping us trying them on and told us that genuine Panama hats are only made in Ecuador and it is believed the name “Panama Hat” was coined as they were shipped to Panama before being taken to markets in North America, Asia and the Caribbean. Roosevelt was seen wearing a Panama hat when he visited Panama to view the construction of the Panama Canal which increased its popularity. Panama Hats are still traditionally hand-made in Ecuador. Tova bought one of the hats for an amazing low price of $15. (Note: when we visited Panama City last February, Tova tried some Panama hats but there the prices started at $30).================================================================================================================================================================================
We walked for a few minutes and arrived at the banks of the Tomebamba River, which separates the two parts of this 
historic city in Ecuador. We found several attractions along the river, including an old stone bridge that once crossed the river, but is now used as a lookout point. We saw the Iglesias Todos Los Santos, a white-painted church dating back to the nineteenth century, and admired the colonial homes alongside the banks of the river. At one point, Carlos led us to a staircase with many wide stairs, which led us back to the old city. We walked through the cobblestones streets, bought a couple of CD’s and returned to the hotel to pickup our luggage and the car.================================================================================================================================================================================
Our next stop was at Turi Hill for a panoramic view of the city. This was an amazing place full of people crowding the few restaurants all watching the spectacular views of the city and beyond.================================================================================================================================================================================
Tova mentioned earlier to Carlos that she needed her hair done in a salon. We stopped at the city mall: A modern complex with all the big names in fashion and famous chain restaurants. We found the salon on the second floor and while Tova was attended to, I opted to take a water massage.
We headed out off the city, driving along the peaceful river and into an area with wonderful landscaping. Once again we saw the farmers working their lands while others leading sheep, cows, and other animals.================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived at El Cajas National Park and found a nice looking resort, nestled in the foothills of the breathtaking Park. The name on a large billboard said: Dos Correras (two streams). The resort had two restaurants: one along the highway and the other inside the resort, right next to a lodge. When we entered the first one, Carlos mentioned that we should also visit the second and that it has many other dishes on the menu. We left the drove to the second one, only to find a line of people outside. Someone told us that the wait is about a couple of hours. We returned to the f
irst restaurant and enjoyed a delightful meal, consisting of a fresh trout, right out of the lake next to the restaurant, and cooked vegetables.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We entered the park and learned that though we were at about 3,000 meters above sea level, we will reach the height of over 4,400 meters. Here are some facts: The park is about 28 000 hectare in area with some 230 lakes, including La Toreadora Lake. The park is a home for a variety of wildlife including the Andean Gull, black frogs, humming birds, lamas and condors as well as a variety of indigenous plants including many rare bromeliads and orchids.
We entered the park and learned that though we were at about 3,000 meters above sea level, we will reach the height of over 4,400 meters. Here are some facts: The park is about 28 000 hectare in area with some 230 lakes, including La Toreadora Lake. The park is a home for a variety of wildlife including the Andean Gull, black frogs, humming birds, lamas and condors as well as a variety of indigenous plants including many rare bromeliads and orchids.================================================================================================================================================================================
We met few lamas along the way and continued climbing up the mountains. At the summit Carlos took a bottle of water, put it outside of the car’s window for few seconds and then sealed the bottle with its cap. He promised to show us what thin air can do to the air inside the bottle. A very dense fog welcomed us and we drove for about an hour in the fog and then it disappeared as we reached the bottom of the bottom of the foothills on our way to Guayaquil. As we reached the bottom of the mountain, Carlos pointed at the bottle: It shrank!!================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived to the city at around 7:30 pm. A beautiful sunset welcomed us as we entered the city, which is the largest one in the country with over 1.5 million people. Carlos told us a little of its rich history and once again impressed us with his knowledge: the city is one of the best ports along Latin America's Pacific coast, Guayaquil has industries manufacturing textiles, leather goods, cement, alcohol, soap, and iron products. Through its modern harbor are shipped cacao, 
coffee, and bananas, the principal exports of Ecuador. Between 1970 and 1990 the city's population nearly doubled. Guayaquil was founded by the Spanish conquistador Sebastián de Benalcázar in 1535. It was often subjected to attacks by buccaneers in the 17th & 18th centuries. It was destroyed repeatedly by fires in the 19th centuries. Traditionally a port city, Guayaquil is now focusing on upholding it's nickname as "Perla del Pacifico" (Pearl of the Pacific) where new constructions rise next to the old historic buildings.================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived at our hotel: The Hampton Inn. Carlos waited for us in the lobby for a few minutes. We took Avenida 9 de Octubre and walked towards the Guayas River (only few minutes away from the hotel). Once we got there we saw a beautiful memorial monument, which is a tribute to Simon Bolivar and San Martin Liberators meeting on July 22nd, 1822 in the city. We learned that on this date, after great successes for both men across South America San Martin met with his fellow liberator Simon Bolivar in the city’s port, to discuss their further efforts to liberate the continent. While the specifics of the meeting are unknown, it resulted in San Martin’s retirement (in Europe) which left Bolivar to lead the anti-royalist forces and become known as the single great liberator of the continent.================================================================================================================================================================================
Raindrops started to fall as we took the spectacular 2.5 kilometer long "Malecon 2000" pier, which became one of the main tourist attractions of the city over the past years. There were hundreds of people walking by. Along the way we spotted a botanical garden, restaurants, bars, shopping, cinemas, night clubs and more. Close to the end of the pier we spotted the historic Santa Ana Hill and "Las Peñas" neighborhood, surrounded by colorful houses is the oldest neighborhood in town where the city was founded. What stood out was the beautiful lighthouse on top of the hill. We opted to not climb the hill but instead to return to the hotel as rain now became a bit heavier.We arrived to our hotel, packed for tomorrow’s trip and fell asleep at around 11:00.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 12: June 20th, 2011
We woke up at 5:00 and went to the dining room on the 3rd floor. Breakfast was the best one for the entire trip. As we did not have dinner last night, we consumed a lot of delicious entries, fruits, breakfast cakes, 3 different kind of fresh squeezed juices and a large variety of cheese, meat and of course eggs.
Carlos, who slept once again in a different hotel, showed up at 6:40 and we headed to the International Airport for our upcoming flight to the Galapagos Islands.After a short delay we boarded the AeroGal flight and landed 90 minutes later in Baltra Island, a small flat island located near the center of the Galapagos. After going through the Agriculture Department inspection, we paid the $100 pp dues and entered Paradise. A gentleman was waiting for all those to board the Legend Cruise and we boarded a bus, which took us to an awaiting boat. After a short ride we climbed the luxury cruise ship and were assigned our cabin. The Junior Suite consisted of 2 beds, TV, small bathroom, and a small dresser.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We unpacked and then entered the dining room for lunch. Later we met a nice family from Switzerland: Michelle, Eric, and their daughter Nodine. Travelling with them was Michelle’s nephew David.
An orientation was scheduled for 2:00 and we met our guide for the next 4 days: His name was Andres. We were taught “The Galapagos Greeting” technique when boarding or disembarking the ship: You need to give everything you are holding to the guide(s) so your hands can be free to hold onto the guide’s arm (not hand). We also learned the difference between Dry Landing (stepping directly from a dinghy onto rocks or a dock) and Wet Landing (When the dinghy edges toward the beach and you step into knee-deep water).
Our first excursion on this heavenly place took place at 4:00 when we boarded a small dinghy. After a 10 minutes ride we had a “Dry Landing” in North Seymour Island. We found a charming place, which was mostly flat and arid, with certain vegetation that includes Prickly Pear Cacti, Palo Santos Trees and Salt Bushes. The area of the Island is of approximately 2 km².================================================================================================================================================================================
In the next hour and a half we found a rich variety of wildlife including sea lions sleeping alongside the paved road, passed close to the nesting areas of a colony of blue-footed boobies, witnessing the female boobies breeding their eggs. Predator birds were standing close by to the colony waiting for a chance to steal the eggs. 
At one point we saw the male booby bringing a fish to his beloved female and while “dancing” he transfers the fish into his spouse’s mouth. At another sight we saw an abandoned egg. We also saw many species of lizards, the adorable frigatebirds, a bald eagle observing the territory for his breakfast, lava gulls, swallow-tailed gulls, pelicans, and marine iguanas, who like to hang around as a group, sunbathing along the rocks.================================================================================================================================================================================
We were lucky to arrive during the mating season of the frigatebirds, and witnessed a magnificent male frigatebird trying to attract females by displaying his beautiful red throat. Andres explained that the males have inflatable red-colored throat pouches, which they inflate to attract females during the mating season. On another tree we saw a frigatebird attracting not one but two females. He was standing in the middle of the branch, while each one of the two females waited in hope that he will pick her for mating.
We hiked for about an hour and a half and returned to the ship at around 6:00.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We had another orientation about tomorrow’s excursions and then to the dining room for dinner. As we walked out of the dining room we heard someone yelling: “Sharks on both sides of the ship”.================================================================================================================================================================================
We rushed to the deck and saw about 20 sharks, a couple of sea-lions and a pelican alongside the ship. They were all hunting for the fish, which were attracted to the huge headlight lamps positioned on each side of the ship. This was an amazing sight, as we all felt that we watching the National Geography channel.
I took many pictures but only few came out good, as the sharks were moving so fast and my camera could not get a clear picture of them moving in the dark.
We hit the beds at around 11:00
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 13: June 21st, 2011
Wake up was at 6:00 and after breakfast we boarded the dinghy, which took us for a “Dry Landing” at Dragon Hill in the Santa Cruz Island. the island is one of the newest visitor's sites on Santa Cruz Island. Named for the large number of land iguanas that frequent the area, Dragon Hill has become an important nesting site for iguanas reintroduced there by the Charles Darwin Research Center.================================================================================================================================================================================
================================================================================================================================================================================
We found various species of flora and fauna. The island was very sparse and dry of vegetation with huge cactus and cotton trees.However, amazingly there were lots of birds and insects around. The first thing we saw was an amazing salt water lagoon with lots of wading birds.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We continue on the trail and saw our first land iguana. It was a bright yellow male about 4 feet long sun bathing – very different to the marine iguanas we had encountered yesterday. They look like dragons because of their claws and spiky crests. They do not live in huge groups like the marine iguanas but in solitary except at breeding season. They have their own “territories” that they fiercely patrol and guard from intruders. Young iguanas are easily preyed upon by predatory birds and snakes; otherwise they can live up to 60 years of age. They feed of the cactus trees, which we saw all over the island. Andres told us that in true Galapagos style the cactus, has responded by growing tall and woody - up to 33 feet high and are the largest of their kind in Galapagos.
We also saw along the trail mockingbirds, Darwin finches, yellow warbles, and Galapagos doves.We returned to the ship, had a great lunch and then climbed to the moon deck where we were all given snorkeling gear, for our afternoon excursion. We entered the cabin and slept for three hours!
================================================================================================================================================================================
At 4:30 we climbed into the dinghy once again and had a “Wet Landing” at Floreana Island.We started to walk on a 400 meters trail, which separated the beach where we landed to another one. On the way we saw a salty pond with few flamingoes in it. It was such a great sight to watch this royalty bird walking in the wild. We then continued on the trail and saw a couple of blue footed-boobies, a couple of Darwin finches, shorebirds, and Iguanas.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived to a coral-sand beach and spotted beautiful sally crabs resting on the rocks. They were colored in red and magnificent in their size.================================================================================================================================================================================
We then returned to the same trail leading to the greenish-colored beach where we first landed, put on the snorkeling gear and jumped into the comfortable water. I swam about half a mile and arrived to a coral reef where I saw lots of sea creatures I have never seen before al
ong with sea turtles, a variety of reef fish, and sting rays. At one point I was diving when I noticed that 2 baby sea lions were swimming alongside me. This was an experience I will never forget. It felt so weird and to be honest, I didn’t know how to react and had a bit of fear of the unknown. I kept diving with them for a couple of minutes until they just left. A couple of minutes later I found out why they did when I noticed a reef shark about 15 meters away. I spent about an hour swimming, diving and exploring. It was a great experience.================================================================================================================================================================================
We returned to the ship at around 7:00 and were asked to go to the Moon Deck for a Bar-B-Q dinner. Here they served us with steaks, chicken, fish, vegetables kebob and delicious deserts. It was a buffet style dinner, which we both enjoyed so much.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Right after dinner we were invited to an orientation session, regarding tomorrow’s excursions. We returned to the cabin and decided to get one of the DVD’s offered at the receptionist area. We started to watch the movie and about half way through, a huge wave hit the ship, which swung from side to side and as a result, our cabin became a mess when all kind of things started to fly over from high grounds to the floor. Luckily I stored the cameras in the bag earlier. It lasted about a minute and when we assessed the damage, we found a broken night-stand, a couple of broken cups and many things that found their way under our beds.
The rest of the night was rough as well. When we finally slept, it was around 4:00 am.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 14: June 22nd, 2011
After a rocky sleepless night we had breakfast and then boarded the dinghy and dry landed in Suarez Point at the island of Espanola. This morning's adventure was like something out of a time machine. If I had to close my eyes and imagine what the Galapagos would be like, this would have been it. 
The waves off the west coast of the island are some of the largest in the Galapagos, however, our dinghy operator got us to shore behind some weather worn lava rocks for an easy landing. We were greeted by a dozen or so playful sea lions honking, calling, and barking.================================================================================================================================================================================
The water was a deep blue accented with white lacey foam, sea birds making loud harsh cry, which sounded like crows, flying overhead. 
The sun was just beginning to peak over the top of the island that we were about to explore.A large, handsome, turquoise and red male marine iguana stood guarding over the path as we started our hike along the jagged, lava rock shoreline.================================================================================================================================================================================
We passed a waved albatross colony. Dozens of birds engaged in ritual courtship dances while others quietly guarded their eggs. I could not believe the size of their wing-spans. It was over 10 feet and looked amazing. Andres revealed to us that this bird returns to Espanola Island every year at the end of March and stays here until the last days of the summer. It is the largest sea bird in Galapagos.
Hiking the trail we spotted a beautiful lava lizard as we walked past a colony of nesting blue-footed boobies, cautiously guarding their nests, giving a peck with their beaks if you got too close. We also spotted few doves, herons, an eagle, and a beautiful hawk.================================================================================================================================================================================
On the cliffs we were able to see our first nazca boobies, the largest of the boobies. These are beautiful white birds with a pointed orange/red beak, dark grey feet and distinctive black fabric on the ends of their wings. ================================================================================================================================================================================
Roosting alongside the blue and nazca boobies were the swallow-tailed gulls, the only gulls to feed at night. We also saw small songbirds, called Finches, and hood mockingbirds.The black cliffs in the distance were hazy from the mist of crashing waves.
Bright red sally crabs accented the black lava rocks while lazy sea lions punctuated the dynamic shoreline. The dramatic setting among the black cliffs, the never-ending rolling and crashing of the waves below, and the beautiful scenery of the blowhole, where the water shot over 20 meters made a great impression on me and will stay with me for a very long time.================================================================================================================================================================================
We crossed over the top of the island, by far the hardest hiking we have had to do. The trail was a worn path across a lava field, with no two steps being the same or on equal ground. The passage was jagged and slippery - you took a step - looked around at the wildlife, took a picture or two - then looked down and took another step or two. It was impossible to NOT watch where you were going.At the cliffs on the eastern side of the small island we paused to watch the waves, listen to the songs of the birds and take in the beauty. ================================================================================================================================================================================
The dinghy was waiting for us and once again the rough ocean was a key player as we returned to the ship.
Lunch was tasty as usual and we used the rest of the afternoon for some social activities around the bar and then headed for our cabiin for catching up on our sleep.
================================================================================================================================================================================
As our ship arrived to our next destination, the island of San Cristobal, we saw a marina full with boats and characteristics of a populated city in front of us (later we found out that about 5000 people live there). We reached the port with our dinghy. The island is the easternmost island in the Galapagos and famous for its center for breeding giant Galapagos tortoises, the most recognized symbol of the Galapagos. (The islands common name is Spanish for saddle; referring to the shape of the Galapagos tortoise shell).================================================================================================================================================================================
A bus was waiting for us and drove through the town to the countryside as we arrived to the center, which is actually a huge park (over 4600 square ft.).
================================================================================================================================================================================
We used the trail and walked around looking for the huge turtles. After viewing the breeding center we spotted, next to a pond an average sized tortoise having lunch. Few minutes later we spotted a much bigger tortoise with shells measuring over 40 inches. He was far from the trail and we had no way of getting closer to him. At the end of the trail we found a pretty big tortoise, which made the highlight of this brief visit. He was very close to us as our cameras started to shoot. If it wasn’t for this last turtle this excursion would have been a huge disappointment as we all expected so much from this visit.
The bus took us back to town where we entered an Internet Café to check our emails and then did some shopping for souvenirs.
As we boarded our dinghy we noticed two sea lions “fighting” over a spot on a motor boat in the marina, as if they were playing to entertain us.
We were back on the ship at 6:30 and after dinner we all gathered for a good-bye party at the theater.
As we were going to our cabin, we heard someone yelling: “Sharks!!”
We ran to the deck, equipped with our cameras and saw group of about 8 sharks hunting flying fish. We watched how the sharks ambushed the fish, working as a group, where 6 of them were located about 30 meters away from the ship were chasing away the fish towards the boat, while the others waited right next to the ship for their meal to arrive.
I
t was amazing to see them plan the attac
k and more amazing was to see how after awhile the two sharks joined the rest of the group as two other sharks took their turn. Tova suggested that the flying fish were the dumbest fish she had ever seen as they kept coming in, knowing that their chances to survive is slim to none.
I
t was amazing to see them plan the attac
k and more amazing was to see how after awhile the two sharks joined the rest of the group as two other sharks took their turn. Tova suggested that the flying fish were the dumbest fish she had ever seen as they kept coming in, knowing that their chances to survive is slim to none.
Away from the sharks we spotted a black fin off the water. It was a black whale (probably a pilot whale) ambushing a young sea lion who was advancing towards him and then I saw the most amazing thing when the whale upper body lifted from the water with the poor mammal between his teeth and then dive again into the dark water with his prey.
We hung around the pool and the bar, saying goodbyes to everyone and then returned to our cabin. We packed our bags and went to sleep at around midnight.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 15: June 23rd, 2011
We woke up at 6:00. The ship already arrived to Carrion Point, located in the northern part of the island of Santa Cruz. After breakfast we boarded the dinghy and had a pleasant ride around the island. We saw few sea lions, pelicans, a frigatebird and few herons.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We returned to ship an hour later and hung around the pool. Brunch was provided later and it was time to say goodbye as we arrived to Baltra.
The dinghy took us for the last time to the dock, where a bus took us to the airport and to our flight back to the main land of Ecuador.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We arrived to Quito after a short lay-over in Guayaquil and our loyal guide Carolos was waiting for us outside the terminal.
We stopped at a local bakery and bought few delicious breads and assorted cakes and continue our drive to the street named La Ronda.
Located in the old downtown district of Quito, La Ronda was the high class neighborhood of the colonial days. More recently, up until its restoration in 2006 however, it was a dangerous area rarely visited by tourists or locals. What we found was a lively strip with modern restaurants, hostels, and shops. The most striking thing about La Ronda is the police, they are practically everywhere. Literally surrounding La Ronda at the intersection of each side street and at the beginning and end of the strip, it made me wonder what it was like before 2006.
================================================================================================================================================================================
We walked around, stopped at a place where they roast peanuts, corn, and almonds and bought a bag full of the fresh products for under a dollar. We also stopped and bought fresh empanadas. I loved this street and wished we could hang around some more, but it was getting late ad we returned to the car, which took us to a familiar building: the Hotel Quito.================================================================================================================================================================================
We checked in and after packing and last visit to the Internet Center I concluded my day with a swim at the pool while Tova visited the hair salon in the hotel. We called it a night at around 9:30.
================================================================================================================================================================================
Day 16: June 24th, 2011
We woke up at 3:30(!). Carlos showed up at 4:30 and we made our way to airport.
We arrived to Panama City and to our connecting flight to LAX.
Notes: 1. Escaped To Latin America Website is: http://www.escapedtoperu.com/
2. Carlos Avila Contact: CaitosJose01@Hotmail.com
Your comments and feedback are welcome. Please leave your comments below (Just click 'Post a comment').
If you wish to view the entire photo album online (some 3500 pictures!), please email your request to: Aviram.Oren@Gmail.com and I will send you the link.
More Journals
ReplyDeletenice trip blog, i enjoyed lovely pictures and narration. i am looking forward to see more of your trip blog.
jane
What can I say but WOW??? I love your pictures. I love the story about the boy peeing right into the pacina! My gosh! Guess it's not too different from our North American pools. There are definitely some award winning photos in there! What is your next trip? I'm planning India maybe next summer or so, maybe climb what I can at Mount Everest.
ReplyDeleteAmy
Hi guys! how was your trip? are you in Pennsylvania yet? Here is a link to my photos. I had 1500 to sort through. Took me about 15 hours. Gosh! I was so glad to meet you! You two are wonderful!
ReplyDeleteAmy Kobos
ReplyDeleteI just finished the wondeful account of your tour in equador and galapagos. It was especially close to my heart as it was Haim's dream: He wrote a book about a young man, a former Israeli commando, who got lost in that reserve where you visited the big turtles. His remains were found after a long search by an expedition lead by his father and volunteers. Actually there is a small remembrance plate at the entrance of the reserve. In addition to the dead boy's diary, interviews with friends who travelled with him and biographical data, Haim read a lot of books about the place, studied maps and used the boy's fathers' notes and drawings about the research team. The book had some success, and i will give you a copy. But his dream was to visit the places he wrote about.
Simona
Remove content | Delete | Spam
ReplyDeleteאבירם טיול יפה מאד.. מקווה שבפנסייה אוכל לבקר במקומות היפים הללו
להתראות וד"ש לכולם. אוהבים אתכם. בריאות שמחה ואושר
מנדל אבגר
ReplyDeleteAwesome journal Dad. As always great photos. You inspire usto keep the travel bug alive...
Odie
My God Aviram what body of work, what amazing photos, what a great presentation and passionate writing, what a great document added to your amazing blog of world travel, no wonder you have followers, this is so impressive, thank you for sharing your passion motek. I love the narrow streets and alleys in the the end there, you have some amazing photos there.
ReplyDeleteYours, Shony
love the pictures abba. you are a great photographer and imma looks so pretty and cute in all of them. miss you guys sooooo much!
ReplyDeleteEmly
Awesome journal Dad. As always great photos. You inspire usto keep the travel bug alive
ReplyDeleteSharone